#1
|
||||
|
||||
Any ideas on making folds on laser printed parts
Because my Brother MFC-J985DW ink jet printer could not even come close to the colors on my monitor I had the parts for a model printed on 80# stock at my local UPS store on a laser printer. The quality of the prints is phenomenal, the colors and details are exactly as is seen on my monitor. The printed parts on the paper are somewhat glossy, I guess that is just the laser toner finish.
The difficulty I am having is the serious cracking/flaking that occurs when making folds. I have tried scoring fold lines on the front as well as on the back to no avail. What I have resorted to doing is using an old x-acto blade to cut part way through the fold line. The result is I have to color every one of the fold lines after making the fold. After seeing the laser prints it is going to be hard to go back to inkjet prints. I looked at John Wagenseil's suggestions on this subject and was hoping someone may have found a less cumbersome method. Thanks
__________________
Paul |
Google Adsense |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
When I first started out paper modelling I used my photo quality colour laser printer to print out my first 20 or so models, had exactly the same issue as you, only thing i found that helped a little was to pre spray the sheets with clear gloss and let fully dry , I then scored any bend marks with a specially blunted xacto knife that dosnt cut the fibers of the paper and still got a fair bit of flaking, then As I do armour models I then had to spray a coat Matt over it as shiny gloss dosnt look right on tanks lol decided it was all to much bother and went and bought a ink jet.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Since the quality and coating of the paper are also factors that influence the end result, you need to find the technique that better suits the materials the print shop use.
When I started printing in laser I used glossy coated cardstocks, but found the cracking to be excessive. There are matte cardstocks that I found had a better adherence of the toner to it and didn't have much flacking. Your print shop should have a selection of different papers to choose from, so it is ok to ask them about the different options available and print some test parts on each to see what is better for your models. Now I personally prefer matte papers/cardstock. I start by applying a thin layer of clear varnish to the sheets. After it has dried properly I score as normal (I let it to dry at least one day). I've found the varnish helps a lot to prevent cracking of the toner. It may not be perfect 100% of the time, but it helps me a lot with the current shop and papers I use. Sometimes if the cardstock is too thick I score from behind torturing the paper as much as possible with a dried pen, or sometimes score on the back with a sewing needle or pin actually cutting the uppermost layer of the cardstock. Hope that helps.
__________________
Rubén Andrés Martínez A. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Has anyone ever tried to use clear floor polish for gloss and we do on plastic models?
Just a question, (may be off topic). The Duke |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
First, spray the laser printed sheets with two coats of a good matte spray like krylon matte finish. Then when scoring, use a light touch with a sharp exacto blade instead of your normal dull scoring tool. Apply only enough pressure to cut thru the top layer of toner. This will prevent any cracking and flaking issues. Just remember use a very light touch - you don't want to cut the whole way thru the sheet. Any exposed folded white edges can be touched up using a small paint brush with thinned down water color paints.
Good Luck |
Google Adsense |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Just a question
as we do on plastic models, (Opps)
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
The reason why you are getting flaking of the toner is due to the printer's heating element not being set for a thicker paper, the toner hasn't melted into the paper so to speak, which causes the flaking when scoring and folding parts.
You can get calibration software to calibrate the colors you see on your screen with those coming from the printer, might be easier than running to the local printer every time you want to print a kit.
__________________
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I have printed parts on a laser printer, and unlike ink which wicks into the porous texture of the paper, toner is bonded to the surface by heat. Not only does the white paper show through at fold lines, but the surfaces of curved, rounded sheets showed little white filaments where stress fractures broke the toner. Laser printing was too discouraging for me.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Sincere thanks to everyone for your suggestions. I have contacted Brother about the color problem and will await their response. In retrospect, that is the issue that needs to be resolved.
__________________
Paul |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Rickstef is correct in what he says - the toner is flaking as the heat setting was incorrect.
I have been modelling in paper for over 10 years now and have NOT had this issue on laser prints! The laser print process bakes the toner into the paper and it should then fold fine. And yes, a spray of varnish beforehand is always a good idea! It should not end up as a toner layer "caked" on the top of the paper (which will crack)... With thick paper (as Rick indicated) the correct heat setting should be used as the whole process is very heat sensitive. While printing can still be done without adjusting the thickness setting at all (and ordinarily this will not make much difference), it will mean the toner is not properly baked in - and it will flake when folding. The thicker paper setting results in high temperatures and the toner is then "baked" into the paper properly. My guess is the print shop did not use the correct setting (laziness/ignorance?). Paper type can also affect the finish, as can an incorrect temperature, resulting in undue glossiness (sometimes).
__________________
The SD40 is 55 now! |
Google Adsense |
|
|