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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2012, 01:37 PM
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In addition to all of the above I have a glue recommendation, Tombow mono Aqua. If you can find it or an equivalent glue use it. It goes on clear and stays clear. I wipes away easily if too much glue is used and dries completely clear with very little sheen. You still must apply a clear acrylic sealer prior to building and use a matte acrylic after building for best results.

Curt
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:54 PM
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Glue applicators

Not so much about glue but the application of it. Recently I came across www.finetip.co.uk who market a small plastic bottle with a ( I think) 1mm ss nozzle. this means that you can produce .5 mm ish threads of glue or tiny dots. For me , with my 65 year old hands and eyes, my glueing has improved dramatically. I use a tacky glue, but any PVA glue is compatible with the bottle. All the best Bailey
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:01 PM
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Thanks for the info, bailey. I just ordered one of these finetip applicators.

Don
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:11 PM
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Definitely spray the model sheet with a clear coat first.
It also prevents some of the ink from rubbing off while you are working on the model which results in a brighter model.
Try experimenting with PVA glues which have a lower water content than Elmer's.

Yes I. will use pva from now on but elmers is ok just let it dry for a few minutes
but not to much crap clear coat is x pensive but i use a air brush. because there will be no land fill dump from spray cans
F-22 nut
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:44 AM
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Hey Don, what PVA do you use? If you use Aleene's Tacky, let me know how it flows through that tip. Also, if you happen to have a caliper/micrometer, can you let us know the diameter of the tip? I recognize how they built it - that's the tip to a metal mechanical pencil, and I tried to build my own the other day by scavenging a pencil tip and attaching it to the top of an Aleene's Tacky bottle, but it was only a 0.5mm pencil tip and I had to apply too much pressure to the bottle to get it to come out - I couldn't apply it in a controlled manner. It would probably work OK with a thinner glue like Elmer's but I prefer the lower-water-content of Aleene's.

I can also highly recommend spraying the model with Krylon Preserve It! (Matte or Gloss) before building. It makes a huge difference in how easily excess glue cleans off, and more importantly it prevents the ink from running under such glue spots. Every single time I build a kit without spraying the pages first (like my recent FG F-4 Phantom), I get a spot somewhere on it from excess glue or a water droplet or something. Never gotten one on my sealed pages. I have a thread on spray sealing in the Tips and Tricks section, check it out for a further discussion.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:56 AM
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Clean PVA Glue

Hi, the tip is 1mm od 0.5 id (measured by the pin which acts as a stopper). I use Anitas tacky glue which is very similar to Aleenes which I have used in the past. The bottle itself is considerably more "squeezy" than the tacky glue bottle and the flow is easily controlled . The whole finetip concept is a real improvement on any of my previous solutions which normally revolve around a squidge of glue on a mat and a toothpick - not very precise. I bought a spare bottle and some spare pins in case the nozzle got gummed up but so far (3 months) no problem. Hope this helps Bailey
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:21 PM
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Good info, Bailey. My finetip is on the way and I will see how it works.

I use Aileen's Tacky for most building, but also keep Elmer's on hand when I want something thinner, as well as Curt's Tombow mono Aqua (which will probably work well in the finetip), Scotch 70 spray adhesive for afixing paper to card (formers and the like), stick glue (UHU or Avery) for small-scale laminations, and CA in small quantities when wire is involved or to strengthen small parts. I also pre-spray with cMags' Krylon UV to protect the surfaces against my natural clumsiness and messiness and I like the texture that it gives to the paper - Neocolor II water soluble crayons seem to really work especially well on folded edges that have been Kryloned.

Don
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bailey View Post
. I bought a spare bottle and some spare pins in case the nozzle got gummed up but so far (3 months) no problem. Hope this helps Bailey
I'm assuming that this is a metal tube/tip? If so then you may be able to clear blockages using a lighter or match flame applied to the tube - I do this for my plastic glue applicators and it works well...
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Old 01-28-2012, 03:07 AM
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Clean PVA glue

Yes its a stainless steel tip. Take a look at the finetip website - they recommend keeping the bottle full and stored upside down to reduce the risk of clogging; as I said no problem so far! Bailey
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