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Old 10-25-2010, 03:05 AM
gkots gkots is offline
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clean PVA glue!

Hello,

I face a problem with PVA glue. I usually use inkjet printer (and paper) for my models. However, a big disadvantage of inkjet printing is that the PVA glue leaves stain on inkjet colors. It is a glossy and disgusting effect that ruins my models. And what I have seen since I started papermodeling is that all models have stains, despite the attention I paid on each one. I think your experience will help me somehow.
1. How can I clean the PVA glue?
2. Can I spray the printed surface with an acrylic matte spray before gluing? Does it work?
3. I use a cheap PVA glue. Is there any other PVA (specific brand?) which is more "friendly" with cleaning?
4. In conclusion, is there any trick (except attention and patience) that I should know?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:07 AM
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Texman Texman is offline
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Hello gkots,

You are on the right path with your line of questions. I will see if I can help
1) If you catch it quick enough, you can carefully wipe some of the glue off. Sometimes, if it dries, you can scrape or peel it off.
2) Yes, you can spray the printed sheet to help "set" the ink into the paper, and to a limited extent, seal it. I use a sealant, Krylon, and it allows me to peel excess glue from the part without damage. Most of the time!
3) It is hard to recommend a specific brand to you, as what is available in one country may not me available in another.
4) Tricks and tips - Use as little glue as possible. Most glue errors come from using to much. It seeps out of the seam, thus making a smear or mess, and the water content can fray and warp the edges.

Also, generally, the thicker the PVA, the less water is in it, and the better it is for assembly.

When I was in Europe, and alot of Europeans, use a German adhesive made by UHU. it does work extremely well if you can get it.

Hope this answers some of your questions. There are others with much more knowledge than I, perhaps they can add information for you.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:14 AM
scyg scyg is offline
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The only "trick" I can suggest is trying to use as little glue as possible, and always putting it on the smaller part you are gluing - for instance on a joining strip, and not the part you are gluing it to. I don't think there is any glue you can completely clean off paper, except maybe rubber cement, which in *some* instances can be "rolled off".
Also, if you're working with inkjet prints, if you mess up, you can always print out a new part and try again.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:56 AM
gkots gkots is offline
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Thanks for your suggestions. I believe that using as little glue as possible is the first step. So, I will try to be more careful when I put glue!
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:37 PM
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Bionic Modeler Bionic Modeler is offline
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If you really want a near perfect model seal it first as stated earlier. But remember that if you seal it the glue doesn't adhere as well. I suggest masking the glue tabs before spraying. I also use Krylon but any laquer based sealers will work as well. I have a can of Deft which is available here in the U.S.A. and I use my spray gun to apply it and it is much cheaper that way. Then when finished you can apply a finish soat to achieve pretty nice results. Most people think my models are made of plastic becasue I get such a nice sheen on them. It preserves them as well.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:43 PM
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mldixon mldixon is offline
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I've been using Beacon, Zipdry paper glue, Fast Drying, Acid free, Clear drying, holds good, and most important. When it gets in the way it rubs off like rubber cement and does not affect the paper or ink. Oh and does not wrinkle the paper. You should try it. If you don't like it you can always just put it on the shelf with all the other ones that didn't work.
I find myself reaching for this more and more often lately.
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:06 AM
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F-22 nut F-22 nut is offline
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I have one tip "spray" the printed surface with "lacquer" before assembly .
Idid it to my models but i still have to post which i do not know yet.
And oh i use "ELMERS" glue or "SYNTHETIC WOOD GLUE".
F-22nut
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:30 AM
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Zakopious Zakopious is offline
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Definitely spray the model sheet with a clear coat first.
It also prevents some of the ink from rubbing off while you are working on the model which results in a brighter model.
Try experimenting with PVA glues which have a lower water content than Elmer's.

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Old 01-22-2012, 12:20 PM
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Zakopious Zakopious is offline
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There is a description of a needle point glue applicator here:

Scratch Building Part 4

This should allow a very tiny drop of glue to be applied to the paper parts.

Ken
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:47 PM
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Darwin Darwin is offline
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"A cheap PVA glue" speaks volumes re your problem. I have very good luck using Aileens Tacky Glue.
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