#61
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I have been using this version of Tacky Glue
Amazon.com: Aleene's 29682 All Purpose Turbo Tacky Glue, 4-Ounce: Arts, Crafts & Sewing and i use this version for small parts http://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Turbo-...cky+glue+turbo
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#62
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this is my all time favorite. clamp, release, and you have about five seconds to abort.
One thing I have learned, if using glossy photo paper, putting the back to the back does not seem to work, it just never sticks. |
#63
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Quote:
I have used a few different BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA glues. I like the purple gap-filling quick set variety. I recently got one of their brush-on glues too. It works well for plasticizing weak parts. |
#64
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Looks like Elmers has a (Craft purpose) "Tacky" Glue.
But it also appears that they have only one version of this "tacky glue". Are you guys comparing Aileenes Tacky Glue to Elmers Tacky Glue? if not, the comparison may be a little unfair. Elmers paper Glue...specifically their White Paper Glue (School Craft) is not meant to be permanent and ever-lasting, and it is very water soluble which means it washes off easy, but wrinkles paper easily because of its high water content. I think its good stuff...but it has its own application. I like Aileenes Tacky Glues for paper crafting purposes. And I prefer the idea of the various "Tacky" Glues from Aileenes ...up to now, I have used the "regular" Tacky Glue, the "Fast Grab" Tacky Glue and the "Quick Dry". I also have the Clear, but never really got used to its qualities. Only thing I don't like is the "Fast Grab" is a tad too thick, and if I dispense a little puddle and use a brush or toothpick to apply it, the puddle thickens and becomes unusable fairly quickly. I've also noticed that Aileenes is not always permanent. In other words, I have parts that are coming apart minutes, days, weeks and months later. I believe it has a lot to do with how much glue is used initially and how well the two parts are mated. Pressure seems to be very important to both large and small areas for better bonding, and this (to me) indicates that less is more. A thinner, more evenly spread layer of glue works better. Just a guess I have found that all white paper glues and Tacky Glues...or at least, the ones I have tried... are fairly useless at anything other than wood and paper. Metal and Plastic parts can't be stuck to paper without using something like CA Glue*. * I'm referring to the use of a quick, instant type glue...obviously Epoxies glue anything! Next time I get to Michaels, I am going to look for some of that Zip Dry. looks interesting. Glue Sticks?...have never made any sense to me. Granted, the only glue sticks I have ever used are standard UHu sticks and School Craft Glue sticks, but I see no way to apply a glue stick to a very small part, or a tricky location, and the Glue doesn't seem that good to me...more of a temporary thing. And how can you apply glue the same way Women put on lipstick?!
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#65
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Agreed. I don't feel strongly about Arlene's vs Elmers. Arlenes is what I had when I built my first paper model and I've used it ever since. I like the consistency (thick) and that the top of the bottle fits well into the hole in my workbench, so I can easily keep the bottle inverted.
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#66
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Since seeing this thread, I have seen two build threads where wonderful results are had with edge gluing paper (no backing). What combination of glue and technique/black magic allows that?
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#67
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I don't know about "black magic" for edge gluing, but I have seen masking or painter's tape used with good results. As for glue sticks Dave, I've used them for laminating thin paper to foam when using foam for formers.
Two of my newest favorite glues are Crafter's Pick Ultimate white PVA glue and a clear urethane glue called Liquid FUSION. I used all caps cause on the bottle the fusion part is a flaming font. The Crafter's Pick Ultimate white glue is very thick and fast drying. The Liquid Fusion is clear, cleans up easily and sticks to plastic as well as paper so it's good for canopies. Both of these glues are available at most craft stores. Curt |
#68
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I only got into paper models about a decade ago, but I've used the basic version of Alene's for most everything and even my earliest models are holding up and looking just fine. I live in north Texas, though, which isn't quite as humid as coastal areas. I would suspect humidity can affect PVA joints over time. BTW, I haven't seen this Alene's Turbo yet. I'll have to pick some up sometime. I make some jewelry-like (& priced) fine miniatures that involve a lot of assembly and I normally use a good 2-part epoxy for most everything there. When quality is more important than price, epoxy is hard to beat. From what I've heard, I'm not entirely confident in the longevity of CA glues.
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#69
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I have found that when using super glue I use a piece of waxed paper under the part being worked on. Super glue will not stick to waxed paper and this will prevent inadvertently gluing your part to the work bench.
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#70
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Howdy y'all!
I'd like to add one tiny (literally) but important detail about stiffening parts with CA: OK, since you don't want the CA-soaked part you're working on to stick anywhere it doesn't belong, you'll want to keep it away from anything with tweezers (or cloth pegs, or whatever does the job); but since you sure don't want that part to permanently stick to your tweezers (or cloth pegs, ...), you'll want to leave a rather long, thin (.5 mm?) strip of extra paper / card stock on the part, wherever it's the easiest to remove once the CA has dried out completely. I don't know if that's the way "it is done", that's just the way I do it ... and it works! - Tex |
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