Help with these finishing sprays? - Page 2

**Texman** · #11 02-20-2013, 05:38 AM

I have used them all. Krylon will "frost" if the instructions are not followed,
especially in high humidity conditions. I have actually used this to my benefit
to depict a silver paint finish on the Mig-21 I/2 I did. Follow the instructions,
and any of them will work.

**KCStephens** · #12 02-20-2013, 07:50 AM

Best suggestion I can offer regarding the krylon Matte spray is....

Shake shake shake and shake some more. The more you shake the can the less likely you will run into trouble with ghosting. You may also want to heat the can up a bit by running it under some warm tap water for a few minutes. (just make sure you dry it off real good before spraying - you dont want any water drops on your printed model)

Probably the most importent thing to remember is don't over do it - a little goes a long way. Use a few light coats rather than one heavy one.

Also, I've had good luck with the inexpensive store brand fom AC moore (sorry I don't have the exact name at the moment) but it's in a generic looking white can and for about half the cost of the Krylon. I've never had any issues with the chalky ghosting like I've experienced in the past with the Krylon brand.

Good luck and remenber it's best to spray the sheets before you start to build rather than after the model is finished.

**Kevin WS** · #13 02-20-2013, 01:26 PM

That's fine - lots of scope now for you to experiment!

**rockpaperscissor** · #14 02-20-2013, 01:42 PM

I prefer Krylon satin, and always spray the printed sheets before cutting/assembly. I never had much luck with Krylon matte. No matter how much I shake it, and no matter how lightly I apply it, it always leaves a visible fogginess. I've used Krylon gloss with no problem. The amount of gloss it imparts to plain old cardstock is pretty much undetectable.

**lisatnp** · #15 02-20-2013, 03:13 PM

i make beads out of paper as well, i will check to see what the name brand is, as it seems to be eluding me at the moment.
I like the tips of spraying before cutting, i had noticed as i was trying out different papers, that the ink smudges on some of the lighter weight paper. by spraying before cutting, doesn't it make the paper harder to work with?
( sorry not trying to step on your topic but had a thought and had to go with it.lol)

**Vermin_King** · #16 02-20-2013, 04:38 PM

it does make it slightly stiffer, but not much. remember ... light coats. I will continue to do coats after building, as I had before. That is where the added stiffness makes the models more durable.

**Paperbender** · #17 02-20-2013, 09:26 PM

AMEN! to ashevillangler's observation about 'frosting', unless you like the washed-out pebbely look.

**whulsey** · #18 02-20-2013, 09:59 PM

The 2 most important things is test first on a scrap piece and light coats.

I've used several of the different Krylon products over the years without any real problems. Haven't ran into the ghosting problem that some have mentioned, but some of that may be that usually when I'm spraying it is during the summer here in AZ on my patio. Similar to working inside an oven, hot and dry. Which may mean the trick is what a lot of the plastic model car guys use painting is a food dehydrator set up for 100-120 degree operation.

**Vermin_King** · #19 02-20-2013, 11:20 PM

For those folks with the frosting/ghosting problem, how long does it take to show up? I've been doing this for a year and a half without issue. Is it still coming down the pike?

**lisatnp** · #20 02-21-2013, 10:30 AM

I have 3 different kinds.
( i have only just started to use them so i really don't have much input on them yet but there are:
Mod Podge - gloss clear acrylic sealer,
Krylon - triple thick crystal glaze and
red devil clear finish