HMS Glowworm. Card thickness help!

**rwlitchfield** · #1 02-26-2013, 10:00 AM

Hello,
I am new to both this forum and card modelling.
Historically I have made both plastic, and wooden ships, currently making the Hood 1/200 scale from Hachette.
I have purchased the GPM HMS Glowworm card model, and am reticent to start it, becauise I am not aware of what card (plasticard), to use.
Would you normally bond the printed parts onto another card, an if so what thickness.
This looks very rambling, hope it makes sense.
Regards
Bob

**Papercaptain** · #2 02-26-2013, 04:38 PM

Hello, Bob!

Welcome to the cardmodeling experience! You'll find some signs or symbols on the sheets of the different card model editors, seems everyone has his own system there. But as a general rule for Polish card models, the parts that have to be doubled or bonded by surplus card (e.g. empty cereals packages) are indicated by small asterisks *, sometimes you can see the thickness indicated by - or =, meaning the double or triple thickness, or they give the thickness in mm (o.5 equals Bristol card, used for decks; 1 mm is normally used for the formers / skeleton).
Be aware: there's either a scissor symbol or the letter W used for "cutting out" or "to be cut out".

Kind regards - don't be shy to ask
Papercaptain

**GreMir** · #3 02-26-2013, 05:22 PM

Bob,
Only parts marked with "*" should be laminated with 1mm card. You can use cardboard backing from calendars or laminate few layers of regulard card to achieve desired thickness. You can also purchase 1mm card, but that will drive the cost up...

**rwlitchfield** · #4 02-27-2013, 05:01 AM

Thankyou for these replys, have now found the "*" on the plans, so cooking with gas.
Regards
Bob

**Didier** · #5 08-29-2014, 08:04 AM

Does it apply aolso to JSC models 1/400. So far I did not find any sign ... Did anyone find something ?

Do you laminate some JSC ship models parts ? If yes which ones in general ?

Didier

**CMDRTED** · #6 08-29-2014, 09:20 AM

No! JSC uses a unique framework that is built into the formers themselves. in most cases with JSC the part is folded over on itself with gluing tabs folded forward or back. some of their bigger kits have a center triangular backbone to keep the segments straight. after the core section is done the color skins are glued over this core. works very well. some of the complex hulls are sorta approximated, ie British cruisers have a nice water entry then towards the maindeck kinda square off, this is usually one continuous sweep with their design.

**Didier** · #7 08-30-2014, 05:48 AM

Thank you CMDRTED for your answer. Yes the system of the triangular bone works quite well on long units.

I was indeed wondering if there was a way to make JSC decks less flexible for example. I am building the SS United States at the moment and on long deck parts I see some kind of light ondulations. Fortunetely they tend to disapear with the stage above. So I was thinking about gluing Under the different decks a 0.x mm to 1.0 mm card or laminate them to make them thicker ...

What do you think

**herky** · #8 08-30-2014, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CMDRTED

No! JSC uses a unique framework that is built into the formers themselves. in most cases with JSC the part is folded over on itself with gluing tabs folded forward or back. some of their bigger kits have a center triangular backbone to keep the segments straight. after the core section is done the color skins are glued over this core. works very well. some of the complex hulls are sorta approximated, ie British cruisers have a nice water entry then towards the maindeck kinda square off, this is usually one continuous sweep with their design.

i think that jsc system of interior pieces works extremely well especially on their ship kits.you certainly dont have the stick-out ribs problem to deal with

**herky** · #9 08-30-2014, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Didier

Thank you CMDRTED for your answer. Yes the system of the triangular bone works quite well on long units.

I was indeed wondering if there was a way to make JSC decks less flexible for example. I am building the SS United States at the moment and on long deck parts I see some kind of light ondulations. Fortunetely they tend to disapear with the stage above. So I was thinking about gluing Under the different decks a 0.x mm to 1.0 mm card or laminate them to make them thicker ...

What do you think

i tend to fix the main decks of jsc ships onto backing card especially with large ships like the queen mary two and oranje

**CMDRTED** · #10 08-31-2014, 05:31 AM

the only problem with laminating the decks to cardboard etc is you have to compensate for the thickness by lowering the bulheads the amount of thickness of the cardstock. easy to do in concept, snip off 1mm but make the cuts even, place a few tabs on the tops for the deck to adhere to as the bulheads are 2 pieces of card thick and hey presto you have something there!