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  #41  
Old 12-26-2014, 05:03 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperMaker View Post
Hi,

I don't know if you managed to do this, but if not, then just use hard paper.. its a technique, the creates very stiff paper.. all beit its a bit thicker than normal paper..
Unfortunately, CA's main raison d'être is reinforcing pieces too tiny to laminate - sometimes so thin, they would delaminate when cut.
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  #42  
Old 12-26-2014, 05:20 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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I joined this thread a bit late, and possibly the OP isn't interested any more. Just a few comments:
  • yes, water vapor in the air is the main reagent which polymerizes CA. Therefore gently breathing on it accelerates curing. By the same token, it reacts with the moist mucosae in eyes, nostril and throat with very unpleasant results. Also, if you keep CA refrigerated, let it warm a bit before opening the bottle, otherwise it will attract a lot of condensation and reduce shelf life
  • one of the OP's main problems seems to be gluing parts to the work surface. Didn't you wonder why the CA's cap (usually) doesn't stick to the bottle? Polyethylene is a "greasy" plastic (it's quite difficult to paint and glue), so try covering your table with a plastic bag marked with "PE".
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  #43  
Old 12-27-2014, 10:43 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilTessmacher View Post
I really appreciate all the tips that are coming, but I'm just not getting it.

So far, I've tried six different superglues:

1. Loctite Liquid Super Glue
2. Loctite Instant Super Glue
3. Lion Liquid Super Glue
4. The Original Krazy Glue
5. Scotch Advanced Formula Liquid Super Glue
6. Gorilla Liquid Super Glue

Somewhere else, I saw someone mention ZAP Liquid Super Glue, but I haven't been able to find it in stores around here. I went to a model/hobby shop, and they didn't have it but can order it, so that is coming.

I went to a beauty supply store, and bought a three-pack of fingernail polish brushes to use. So far, I've spent $27.43 on superglue, saran wrap, waxed paper, and nail polish brushes.

Here is what I've discovered:

Sitting near an open window, with a fan in the window pulling air out of the room, goes a long way to preventing fumes from giving one a headache.

Four of the six brands tested succeeded in gluing parts to a piece of glass, to waxed paper, to saran wrap, and aluminum foil.

I also succeeded in gluing a pin, a polish brush, and tweezers to the parts I was testing. I had to wait a day and burn the polish brush and tweezers to get the glued paper off of them.

There is information coming out, but I am not getting it. It's almost like there is some secret that is not being given out, or I am a complete idiot. I lean toward disagreeing with the latter, in spite of what my wife says.

There has to be something that isn't being explained in enough detail for me to get it. Other people do this, and have success. Telling me that "everyone's technique is different" means that there are a lot more techniques out there that aren't being explained in enough detail for me to follow how to attempt it on my own.
Everyone has a different technique. Learned the hard way usually, just the route you're taking...

You now have a better understanding of the technique you need to grasp. Because you know what won't work!

Now, to add to the thinner wallet syndrome:
Just did something to make a stronger part. Fiberglass and epoxy. Was able to create a fiberglass lay-up and then placed my cardstock pattern on top and pressed it into the top layer.

Was expecting the epoxy to saturate the cardstock, possibly distorting the ink. The cardstock became a permanent part of the layup without changing the cardstock/ink.

Thinking for really stiff/strong cardstock a layer of epoxy on the back should work. You can even buy really super thin fiberglass cloth and even carbon fiber from hobby stores to add even more strength.

The epoxy used for this, was the resin and hardener type in the autobody repair section of a hardware or automotive store. Used 5-minute epoxy to glue the fiberglass spar to the cardstock ribs with success, once again no distortion or color change.

Minwax hardener is another substance that others have used in the past to make models more durable. You can find this in most hardware stores in the wood stain area.

Once you've learned all the techniques that won't work, you'll learn one that will.

BTW- The techniques that work for one person, might not work for another, but a small portion of that technique might be a starting point.

You've also learned about safety! i.e., Open window with a fan.

When I use CA (super glue) you will find me wearing chemical safety goggles; do you really want to glue your eye to the lid? Cardstock can act like a springboard and send the CA drops flying...

Best to use a half face respirator with OV filters (organic vapors), to protect your lungs. (around $50 total)

Mike
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  #44  
Old 01-04-2015, 11:57 AM
Mark Petersen Mark Petersen is offline
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When working on Cyana's Service Arm #9 download I found the thing that worked best for me was to apply a polyurethane finish to the card stock after printing. The big problem I did have was as I was using coloured stock the colour would darken quite a bit
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