#41
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Unfortunately, CA's main raison d'être is reinforcing pieces too tiny to laminate - sometimes so thin, they would delaminate when cut.
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#42
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I joined this thread a bit late, and possibly the OP isn't interested any more. Just a few comments:
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#43
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Quote:
You now have a better understanding of the technique you need to grasp. Because you know what won't work! Now, to add to the thinner wallet syndrome: Just did something to make a stronger part. Fiberglass and epoxy. Was able to create a fiberglass lay-up and then placed my cardstock pattern on top and pressed it into the top layer. Was expecting the epoxy to saturate the cardstock, possibly distorting the ink. The cardstock became a permanent part of the layup without changing the cardstock/ink. Thinking for really stiff/strong cardstock a layer of epoxy on the back should work. You can even buy really super thin fiberglass cloth and even carbon fiber from hobby stores to add even more strength. The epoxy used for this, was the resin and hardener type in the autobody repair section of a hardware or automotive store. Used 5-minute epoxy to glue the fiberglass spar to the cardstock ribs with success, once again no distortion or color change. Minwax hardener is another substance that others have used in the past to make models more durable. You can find this in most hardware stores in the wood stain area. Once you've learned all the techniques that won't work, you'll learn one that will. BTW- The techniques that work for one person, might not work for another, but a small portion of that technique might be a starting point. You've also learned about safety! i.e., Open window with a fan. When I use CA (super glue) you will find me wearing chemical safety goggles; do you really want to glue your eye to the lid? Cardstock can act like a springboard and send the CA drops flying... Best to use a half face respirator with OV filters (organic vapors), to protect your lungs. (around $50 total) Mike |
#44
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When working on Cyana's Service Arm #9 download I found the thing that worked best for me was to apply a polyurethane finish to the card stock after printing. The big problem I did have was as I was using coloured stock the colour would darken quite a bit
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