#11
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Ditto on the Japanese hole punch, and scissors for bigger. I tried the gasket punches from harbor freight, they might be good for cork rubber and soft metal but they do a piss poor job on paper and cardboard! the compass cutters take a whole new skill level I don't have time for also.
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#12
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I use scrap clear plastic packaging to make prop circles for the S&P 1:300 aircraft. To make them I use the paper prop centred on a pin and use it to draw a paper circle ... then push the pin through the plastic, and cut around this circle with scissors. (I use embroidery scissors ... for everything!).
For multi-props, I push another layer of plastic onto the pin and cut around the first one. I find it quite easy to build up four or more discs on the pin. When I have enough discs for the model, with them all still on the pin, I then smooth the edges with a diamond nail file (Don't tell the Wife I've nicked it ), but any fine file or sandpaper is probably just as good. The discs are then mounted on toothpicks, which are filed to form the spinner shape, and a point to stick into the engine. Simples ... Johnny. |
#13
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I use scissors for the larger ones, for the small stuff below a 1/4" diameter use a leather hole punch. Between 1/2" and 1/4" use a hammer and hole punch.
Whitney junior has a hole punch for metal working that has over 1 ton of force by squeezing you hand... Mike |
#14
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JohnM
Simple but very effective way to create a spinning propeller effect. Sliver of paint around rim would make a nice final touch. What aircraft is that. I hesitate at guessing a (Super) Constellation? |
#15
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It's the inner circle cut-out of the hub that's driving me crazy...especially trying to do it in thick card stock. A hole punch sounds good, but the issue of getting it lined up exactly in the center is a real problem. This is a problem in search of an invention for sure. Someone stands to make a good deal of money with a patent...
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#16
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@altbob: If the card stock is thick and rigid enough, and the hole you need is rather small, you might like to try a spear-point drill, hand-held, and with very little or no pressure ... in order to keep the hole from fraying, maybe you could use a little CA glue, which, of course, you'll want to let dry thoroughly before drilling. I've tried that a while back, and it worked for me.
As always, just my two cents ... - Tex |
#17
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I think there' some misunderstanding of what altbob needs/wants to cut out.
He wants to cut rings, such as on the attached. These are from tank wheels, altbob probably has other items/sizes, but he's talking about cutting out rings.
__________________
Currently building Heinkel Models/Ron Miller Authentic Nautilus. |
#18
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Quote:
First punch a hole in scrap piece of card stock. Then use that as an overlay on top of the piece you want to punch Align the punch inside the hole in the template them hammer away through both pieces. You will end up with a perfectly positioned hole every time. See the following link: Never Punch Another Off-Center Hole! |
#19
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Quote:
And there are several recolours in PM downloads. I've tried edging the prop discs with colour, but so far I've not found a suitable paint that will stay on the plastic edge. A dose of CA fogs them up nicely though. Johnny. |
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