#1
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folding small parts
I often use a small pair of straight, smooth jawed pliers as a bending brake when working on micro sized paper buildings. Just clamp right next to the scored fold line than push the bend over. This makes it easy to hold onto the small pieces.
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#2
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Good idea.
I also use a dull utility knife blade to fold small parts by lining up the fold line with the edge of the blade and folding over. Sometimes you don't even have to score the fold line.
__________________
~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#3
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I did the same thing like Doug, but instead of dull knife i usually use my everyday blade
good in making sharp edges
__________________
Out of commision, become a pillbox; out of ammo, become a bunker; out of time, become heroes |
#4
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Sometimes I use a knife as a bending brake as well but on the longer edges the pliers work better. On really small pieces the flat tipped tweezers are also handy.
I sell small paper building kits which are precut with perforated fold lines so I created a tutorial to help my customers who are not necessarily paper modelers know how to fold them without tears. The pieces are generally easy enough to bend them without any tools, a mechanical assist is usually only needed to help them get a grip on very small sections and to prevent deformation where there is a very narrow section of paper right next to a fold line. I have them clamp pliers or flat bladed tweezers over the narrow section that is adjacent to the bend to protect it. Glitter Houses: Tips for folding tiny pieces |
#5
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Great thread, for a newbie in the hobby all information is good. Now my newb question and it may be very simple indeed. For the folding lines, do you score them first or.....
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#6
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Most of the time the fold lines are scored first then folded. Some of the fold lines on very small parts are not scored. One of the folding methods described earlier in the thread are used on the unscored fold lines. You will develope a preference after a while on when to score the fold lines or not.
Score can be either a light cut without going all the way through the card stock which will require coloring the cut/score line for a better look or using something to put a shallow indentation along the fold line. The instrument used can be the back side of your knife blade or some other blunt instrument. An empty ball-point pen is used sometimes. I use a small crocheting needle encased in wood. Some people use a small embossing tool. Again, you will develope a preference as to which tool and method you will use the most.
__________________
~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#7
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Thank you for the insight, much appreciated.
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#8
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When I first started and had a less paper-specific toolkit, I used a fine tip ballpoint for scoring lines. I've been doing more blade-scoring in the last few builds to try and sharpen up my corners especially on small pieces, but I find for simple or larger-piece models the pen method is quick and easy.
My mother-in-law does the Stampin' Up thing (sooo many useful cool gadgets available) so she's given me a bone folder which I find invaluable for good creases, but the embossing tool is sometimes too large for the things I generally build. I also tend to build models I'm going to paint later so even if the pen isn't dead it's still fine, as you can easily see on a parts sheet whether you've scored all your lines. |
#9
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I have been looking for smooth jawed, straight sided pliers but haven't found them so far. may I ask where do you get yours?
thanks a380/amit |
#10
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a380, seeing you're in LA I have a pair that I got off a guy who vends tools at a lot of the IPMS and model car shows in LA/OC area. If he's still doing it, he had a lot of neat stuff. The other pair I got at Radio Shack for circuit board work.
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Tags |
folding, micromodes, mini models |
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