Need a trick for fingermark

[Wulf111]

not to down play everyone else but with all this talk about using different glues and tools i think its time one comes up with a simple answer.....

i have this same problem. my fix is to use two towels/rags one sorta wet the other dry. after getting glue on your fingers, clean off the glue with the wet towel/rag and dry them off with the dry one before touching the parts again. its not 100% effective (sometimes you forget) but it does the job.

[herky]

thats why i always use uhu glue

[elliott]

Originally Posted by Wulf111

... my fix is to use two towels/rags one sorta wet the other dry. after getting glue on your fingers, clean off the glue with the wet towel/rag and dry them off with the dry one before touching the parts again. its not 100% effective (sometimes you forget) but it does the job.

That's what I do.

[JohnM]

Originally Posted by Wulf111

not to down play everyone else but with all this talk about using different glues and tools i think its time one comes up with a simple answer.....

i have this same problem. my fix is to use two towels/rags one sorta wet the other dry. after getting glue on your fingers, clean off the glue with the wet towel/rag and dry them off with the dry one before touching the parts again. its not 100% effective (sometimes you forget) but it does the job.

Umm, I tend to just use my trouser leg. 90% 0f the time my leg is clothed in faded denim, and a bit of glue here and there don't look out of place among the other stains from years of rebuilding cars. If I get a bit of excess glue on a model, a licked finger is usually the first IA ... then wiped on the trouser leg of course.

As to avoiding excess glue on the model in the first place ... Regardless of how much or little glue is required, I always apply it using a hypodermic needle, using the steel needle as a spreader. This is also great for reaching inside a model, to apply that extra bit of glue to a tab that didn't take properly the first time.

I find the cheapo ones supplied in Printer Ink refill kits are perfect for the job. The needle is blunt ended (much safer) and just the right bore to be sealed with a dressmaker's pin. It is narrow enough to be left unsealed if not used for ten minutes or so.

Should you forget it and glue hardens in the needle, it can be cleared by removing the needle and pushing a sewing needle right through it. I've found that if the needle is pushed right in, followed by the pin you use to seal it, enough of the needle protrudes from the other end to get hold of with tweezers or small pliers to pull it right through.

ALL the glues I use are water based though, so I cannot be sure if these would be effective using spirit based glues. These could affect the rubber/neoprene seals in the hypo, or even the plastics they are made of.

[Jim Nunn]

Maybe it's just me or the way I work on my models, but getting glue on my figures just does not happen.

Jim Nunn

[RPriddy]

Successful removal of finger marks (glue or skin oils) depends on the quality of the paper, ink, colour, etc.
The best method is prevention!!
I keep a container of Handy Wipes on my bench and use it frequently during a build.
I try to use as little adhesive as possible, and apply it with a fine stainless steel pointed dentall probe. I'm sure your family dentist would have one or two "used" ones that he/she would be willing to contribute to the cause!

[mbauer]

Once I realize just left such a mark, I wait until the glue PVA, is just about dry, then I try to get it to roll instead of smear, If you catch it at the right "gel" stage it will roll off the ink with out too much damage, if it smears the ink, you've tried too soon.

After the mark dries, you can minimize it with a sharp blade, very carefully shaving it. This is a last resort, if you don't catch it soon enough.

Mike