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  #21  
Old 06-12-2009, 03:29 AM
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Gil Gil is offline
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Tutorials Past

Hi All,

Yes, there are a lot of methods for attacking the problem. I even have a book on the subject titled "Decorative Gilding, A Practical Guide" by Annie Sloan. It covers just about all the known methods to create faux metallic finish on just about anything (has an interesting chapter on metallic wax which was mentioned earlier). Leafing techniques have been borrowed by SNJ and Bare Metal for their modeling products . Leafing requires time, expertise and great patience. The effect is good but requires a firm surface to burnish the leaf to conform to the surface contour and detail. This leaves card models out of this process due to the lack of a firm burnishing surface.

The Red River solution and multiple metallic plasticizing paint layers are solutions that several builders have employed with good to excellent results. But alas, it is not aluminum. I too followed these same paths with varying degrees of success and came to the same conclusion, if you want an aluminum surface it has to be made of aluminum.

Aluminum in the form of foil has been an on again, off again investigation for some time now. I've tried tape which appears to be the perfect solution till you attempt to actually model with it. It is much too thick for practical application at most scales used in card modeling and is not wide enough to support larger structures (more on this latter) and it is annealed dead soft. The leafing foils have also been tried with varying degrees of success and cost.

In a nutshell what I've found is that the foil needs to be very thin (half the thickness of kitchen foil) and of a certain alloy n and temper. It needs to be mounted to a carrier with one side consisting of a glass smooth surface. An adhesive that can attach the foil to the coated side of the carrier paper must also exist. The resulting composite needs to be flexible and exhibit no debonding of the foil from the carrier sheet when the composite is flexed.

This is still in development but is nearing a point of completion so that it can bear the coming out party so to speak. Much still needs to be done.

Leif, on the subject of the tutorial, I think it's time to post it to the article sections. I'd like the help if you don't mind.

The idea comes from computer graphics in which the scene is illuminated by another scene which surrounds it. Think of a statge inside a hemisphere that supports a picture on its surface that is used to illuminate the scene (in computer graphics objects, in this case pictures can emit light suitable to illuminate the scene). You've probably seen what appears to be a fish eye lens shot floating around on the net. These scenes are now the newest rage in photography and includes panorama shots, high dynamic range photography (HDRI) and photo stitching. QTVR or Quick Time Virtual Reality is also a big offshoot and can be prevued here:

Welcome to Panavue

So picking a reflective color pallet similar to the place where the model will be displayed will create the sense of a reflective surface on the model. I seem to remember someone executing a P-47D with a reflective scheme?

In summary it seems that there's enough interest in this area especially when builders have prior builds involved with NAF to continue with the rest of the project and its documentation. This is not a closed thread but is wide open to any who care to make comments, additions or complaints. It's a sort of real time development fusion. . . ,

+Gil
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  #22  
Old 06-12-2009, 04:37 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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The old "Painting Aluminum Looking Aircraft Panels in Photoshop" has been added to the Papermodelers.com Self Help Library section:

PaperModelers.com - Downloads - Aluminium painting tutorial

The file will be available as soon as it is cleared by admin.

The tutorial deals with fuselage painting and unfortunately ends at the "Wings and stabilizer" section. However, what's there is very valuable, and I guess the logical continuation would be sky colours for the topside of wings, and ground/tarmac colours for the undersides.

Leif
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  #23  
Old 06-12-2009, 05:31 AM
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Barry Barry is offline
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THere is a thread on Kartonist.de by Marco which is interesting.

Kartonist.de | Bauberichte | Lockheed P38J "Lightning", Fly-Model, 1:33
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  #24  
Old 06-12-2009, 12:00 PM
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DrLaser DrLaser is offline
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Even though the idea of card modeling is not to be painting anything, I like the idea of spray painting cardstock with silver (I must try it). I found you can telegraph shading to RR paper and perhaps painted paper as well. Attached is a Mig-21 I designed. The first photo is done in cardstock. Note the various greys and shading. When printed on RR paper (next photo), that shading and grey tones are preserved and somewhat simulates the natural metal variations. Ya, it's not the best but it's something. Again, the RR paper is sprayed with Dullcoat after it is printed.

Looking forward to reading the download - I have lots of natural metal finish card models to make !
Attached Thumbnails
Natural Aluminum Finish-mig21-cardstock.jpg   Natural Aluminum Finish-mig21-rr-paper.jpg.jpg  
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2009, 12:22 PM
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Torrid Tessie

Lief, thanks for posting the article it made me search out John Griffin's model "Torrid Tessie" a P-47D which he painted using similar techniques. The model is offered through Gremir Models.

Barry, Marco's P-38J is a good example of an applied aluminum finish (I think he used a Revell aluminum paint) which was brushed on due to his lack of an airbrush. The need for NAF seems to have a universal appeal.

I have a few more tests on the current refinement before posting photographs.

+Gil
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  #26  
Old 06-12-2009, 02:54 PM
blueeyedbear blueeyedbear is offline
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I am an accomplished model builder in p*****c and have used SNJ aluminum on 1/72 scale planes from P-51's to Northrop experimental wings. It works great on painted or unpainted plastic. I can't endorse it for paper, as I've never tried it. I suspect that it would work best on paper if you sprayed on a clear or white seal coat before metalizing. And on a large surface, you may have trouble getting an even coverage.
Let us know how it works!!!
Bob, the blueeyed bear
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  #27  
Old 06-12-2009, 05:00 PM
mgolovanov mgolovanov is offline
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A good way to harden Red River Metallic Silver 0.006'' (0.152mm) and to avoid laminating is covering printed sheets with a non-water-based acrylic varnish (both sides!). Besides making the printed sheets and eventually the model protected, this covering adds some 0.02 mm to thickness and makes the paper much harder. Varhishing also somewhat softens glitter
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  #28  
Old 06-13-2009, 05:41 AM
pantherbug2 pantherbug2 is offline
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Alumunium finish

Cough... Cough...

Okay, as a papermodeller, I'm an heretic. I have to face it.
I use modeller metalized paint with my trusty airbrush. It covers the printed details, so... we may crease all the panelling details before assembly, or redraw on the model with a pencil, or go masking job,...
In some cases, I mix a little paint with gloss varnish, thus obtaining a transparent tainted varnish permitting to see details through. Anyway, using paint means typically doing a totally new decoration/lettering job.

On the other hand, it hides the glue stains, little paper defects, faulty prints, unaccurate colors, assembly flaws,...

For special finish or demanding models It has to be considered. It's up to you.
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  #29  
Old 06-13-2009, 01:16 PM
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ringmaster ringmaster is offline
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On plastic models I've had good results with Micro-scale Foil Adhesive and the foil wrappers from premium chocolate bars.
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  #30  
Old 06-13-2009, 01:58 PM
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whulsey whulsey is offline
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I've used both Bare Metal and MicroScale Foil Adhesive with the cheapest generic aluminum foil I can find at Big Lots or the dollar stores (its thinner) on plastic. Going to give it a try on paper.
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