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Overlayed Segment Test
Went back and resurrected a left over mold from a prior experiment on forming paper shells. Aluminum card segments were cut out, laid in, and overlapped to form the forward fuselage half of a BD-5. A butt edge trial is next I guess. . . ,
+Gil |
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Not a Build. . . ,
No it's not a build. Just a test using odds and ends from other experiments to see how it looks. The mold was made to lay-up paper to make a monocoque fuselage shell shown below.
+Gil |
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Very impressive Gil, are you still using kitchen foil glued to card stock? If so, have you had any trouble with the foil deforming, shredding, tearing etc when you cut out the parts?
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Constructive criticism of my builds is welcome. Unless you are a cat. |
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Foil Tearouts. . . ,
The method used to bond the foil to the card stock is strong enough to keep tearouts to a minimum. I do use an Olfa wheel to trim the sheet out of the larger aluminum base, a sharp pair of Fiskars scissors to cut out the pieces.
I've tried Reynolds Heavy Duty foil now and it is somewhat better than the standard thickness foil. I'm looking around for a roll of Reynolds Extra Heavy Duty foil but you need to buy at least 500 feet at a price of just over $50 U.S. Of all the foils on the market Reynolds seems to offer the thickest foils consistently. Standard is is around 17 microns (0.017 mm) with the heavy duty at 21 microns (0.021 mm). The extra heavy is around 36 microns (0.036 mm). BBQ people use the extra heavy duty for a number of different duties including lining the pit. I've found that the heavier the foil the better it works for card modeling applications. Embossing the surface is still a learning process. Prepping the surface with neatsfoot oil keeps the tool from "grabbing" and tearing the aluminum foil. Another neat trick is to rub a little bees wax on the surface and then polish it into the surface with 0000 steel wool, it really "chromes up" the aluminum. +Gil |
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