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I buy that Red River shiney silver paper. It print nicely at least for black ink lines. But it is thin. I glue it to card stock and it is too thick then. I am told next time to glue it to more thin paper but I have not try this yet.
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Gil, I have only played around with spraying different paints to simulate
aluminum and generally botched things up pretty good ![]() If this is a hint at a possible 'Gil' thread, I can't wait!!
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Now Building Halinski's 1:25 Bergepanther http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/a...estions-2.html Last Build...Marek's Albatros CXII in 1:33 |
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Quote:
Ryan
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Commercial Pilot / Certified Flight Instructor Member: Alamo Liaison Squadron Websites: www.doolittleraid.com & www.lbirds.com |
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In the past, I used a product (I think it was called SNJ, or something like that) that consisted of a metallic paint and powdered aluminum that you rub onto the model, while the paint was still a little tacky, to get the precise amount of sheen. For paper, I'm sure you'd have to seal the model first with some kind of varnish to fill the pores.
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I don't make mistakes. I thought I made a mistake once, but I was in error. - Lee Currently working on: ISS |
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I used to use Bare-Metal foil a lot doing plastic airliners. It works really well and I'd imagine it would for paper too. The main drawback I see is panel lines. With plastic, it sinks into the molded lines perfectly, but with paper it would have to be cut for each individual panel. Not difficult with a sharp blade as you cut it once it's on the model, but it would be tedious.
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Jim |
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The Red River product is about the best way to go in my opinion. I use it with a laser or ink jet and both are ok.Black prints well, any other color needs a whit base coat and then the color. Usually all by hand. The silver paper also has to be laminated to a lihgt card stock. For that I use Xyron or hot melt sheets.
SNJ would be a mess and so would bare metal foil.Just a quick thought. |
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