#1
|
|||
|
|||
Laminating question
Newbie here,
I am in the process of building my very first paper model - the JSC SS United States. I have seen some threads here where builders laminate the pieces to 1mm cardboard (i.e., a build of the 1928 SS Bremen). Is this generally necessary or kit specific? Won't this throw off the fit somewhat if you make the pieces thicker? Where does one get 1mm cardboard, or is supplied with a kit? Finally if it is necessary or generally desirable to laminate (perhaps for strength), what do you use for adhesive? Some type of a spray adhesive? I know this JSC kit is not the easiest one to start with, but so far I have most of the frame figured out (except for the stern and the bow) in spite of the limited instructions and almost complete lack of visual guides. |
Google Adsense |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Many questions, but good ones. Here go my answers:
Laminating is specific to the design of the kit itself. Generally kits that require it have parts marked with little number/letter codes or stars to denote thickness needed. Very few JSC kits require any lamination. On the rare case they do it is generally listed in the instructions. I have the United states in my build pile but haven't looked at it in a while to see if its one of these rare ones. Many folks use cardboard from cereal boxes and the like. To get the right thickness they glue layers of it together. Others (like me) tend towards using cardboard sourced elsewhere. For those cases needing Bristol board (0.,25 mm thick) I get a pad from the art section of Hobby Lobby or the like. The cereal box card is usually around 0.5 mm. Many times I use illustration board for my 1 mm needs. (this can be slightly larger than 1 mm though, so I have to make adjustments for fit). I do use spray adhesive for large items or full sheets needing laminated. I can only recommend one type of adhesive though - Super 77. It works the best for me and I know others use it frequently as well. For smaller groups of parts to laminate, I'll use a thin coat of the aleene's white glue I use for most gluing tasks. Anyway, if you get stuck on something during your SS US build, let me know and I'll dig out my copy to see if I can help you get unstuck. Regards, greg
__________________
In dry dock: ? In factory: CWS T-1. In hanger: Fokker triplanes? under construction: ? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I'm contemplating building that ship as well. I'm actually part of the save the ss United States conservancy, and figured I'd build it and have all the board members sign it. Have to build it first.
Please post photos and whatever so I can see your progress. There have been other builds posted here as well, but before building it myself it like to see how others do it. Thanks. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
hi jjdesch,
Laminating can be both mandatory and optional. Some kit require it, some not, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do it if it's make the job easier ! On the "classic" polish kit, which extensively use the edge glueing technique, * (asterisk) means to glue on 1mm cardboard, ** on 2mm, + or k on bristol/0.2mm, that mandatory. Note even if you got the lasercut, some part might not be included. Then the optional, I usually laminate because it's easier, for example doing a box, I stack some cardboard and wrap the part around. I use it to strength the build too or to create a "skeleton". That's hard to explain with words, I used those techniques extensively while doing the modelik panhard vbl (central console, gear, control arm...) For the material, I will disagree with modelperry (sorry ). Cereal box is for recycle bin, not building. The best source is from model shop (gpm, modelik, wak, orlik, etc...) where you can found hight quality cardboard : strong, heavy weight, flat. The 1mm grey is stronger than the yellow 1mm (used for lasercut). You can also get some from your local art store, it's not that expensive. For the 0.2mm, lay off from the kit do the job or again, local art store. Adhesive. for tiny part, regular glue is fine, for bigger one (like a boat desk) spray glue is better, other may dry to fast or deform the part (water based) Look for other build report, don't hesitate to ask question, I learn new trick and technique every time
__________________
On: Gpm neubaufahrzeug Still not dead: Gpm mi 4,Gpm jagdpanther, Done: Mod hobby typ 97,Wak b1bis,Gpm ob3,Modelik vbl, Gpm do335,Halinski p39,Modelik flak 36,Modelik t27 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
for laminating board it depends what im doing,if its for internal formers such as fuselage or ships ribbing i use what ever old card i have about.if it for specifics ie decking i buy thick card from printers.can get up to 300gm from my local fisher print. i use addos spray can glues for laminating for jsc ships i usually fill the triangular main beam with shredded paper to give extra strength.fiddly but worth the effort.as its buried inside hull you dont have to worry about being too neat
__________________
Carborundum Illegitimi Ne Herky Last edited by herky; 03-14-2016 at 02:44 PM. Reason: add ons |
Google Adsense |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
The instructions should tell you what thickness to use. Cereal boxes are about 0.5mm, the backs of writing pads are about 1mm.
For glue, I use Avery Permanent Glue Sticks. If you use spray adhesive, be sure you are using it in a very well-ventilated area. You DO NOT want to be inhaling the stuff or spreading around. Better yet, avoid it.
__________________
I'm an adult? Wait! How did that happen? How do I make it stop?!. My Blog: David's Paper Cuts My paper models and other mischief |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Everyone has a preference for thick card stock. but everyone uses the 3M-77 Spray glue because it is solvent based and the laminated card stock dries flat as a sheet of glass. My preference is to laminate 65-67 lb card stock. With glue two sheets will measure .5 mm and 4 sheets will measure 1 mm. Press sheets between glass plates or any flat surface. Accuracy is .03mm per .5mm This may seem picky as its "only" paper but when you start building the very high level kits errors in the thickness of the card stock can add up and affect the quality of the build.
I have also attached a "Decoder Ring" to decipher most of the symbols used in the paper modeling community. for interest sake the * and ** symbols have been in common use back to the 1950's Jim Nunn
__________________
There is a very fine line between paper modeling and mental illness. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Carborundum Illegitimi Ne Herky |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Instructions
Wow, this is a helpful, active community! Thanks for all the replies, everyone!
There are English instructions, but they are somewhat cryptic. More distressing is the general lack of any visual diagrams other than a partial frame shot, a profile and top down view. Some more exploded assembly instructions typically found in plastic kits would have been nice! I will post some pics shortly. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
Cheers, John Gay |
Google Adsense |
Tags |
kit, laminate, pieces, adhesive, 1mm, generally, cardboard, jsc, easiest, guides, visual, strength, type, spray, stern, bow, spite, instructions, limited, figured, frame, start, complete, desirable, lack |
|
|