beginner question

[ronv]

I am having trouble with glue sticking. I am using Elmer's Glue-All... brand new bottle. Maybe I am not holding the parts in place long enough. I know this a pretty basic part of paper modeling so I need to figure out how to do it right. So, do you apply glue to both parts? Do you hold the parts together with your fingers? How long? I have tried clamping, but the clamps usually disfigure the parts or cause a misalignment.

[Rubenandres77]

Everyone has a different technique to apply glue.

In my case, I use white glue.
With the help of a modified hypodermic needle I apply the glue along the join (only one side),
and use my bare fingers to align it and hold it while it dries.
Sometimes use a toothpick to spread the glue evenly.

As for the amount of glue needed, it depends on the part.
But I've found that the less glue, the better.

Is just a case of trying and finding the precise amount needed to join the parts
without warping them because of the humidity, and to avoid smears.
But usually a small amount of glue is enough.

Other modelers have different techniques, or prefer other kinds of glue.
Hopefully they will share here their advices, so you can choose and experiment
until you find one that suits your need well

[Sakrison]

Aileen's "Tacky Glue" has a lower water content than Elmer's and might set up faster. It also has less tendency to warp the paper. It seems to be a favorite among paper modelers in the U.S. You can find it at almost any craft store or hardware store for about the same price as Elmer's.

I use an upside-down shot glass to hold a small dab of glue and I use a toothpick to apply the glue to the paper. That gives me good control of both the amount of glue and where it goes. Toothpicks are cheap. The shot glass (50¢ @ Goodwill) has advantages: it's reusable, it's heavy so it won't move around or tip over, and it's easy to clean (drop it in a jelly jar full of water overnight and rinse it in the morning).

When I finish a model, I flip the shot glass right side up and fill it with single malt Scotch. Life is good.

I use fingers, tweezers, or a variety of store-bought and homemade clamps to hold parts together while the glue sets. Usually, 5-10 seconds or less gives a secure enough bond, 30 seconds and it's more or less permanent.

For laminating parts to heavier card, I've tried several brands of glue sticks and I prefer Avery's Permanent Glue Stick, and clamping under a couple of heavy books for 15-30 minutes.

[Tim Crowe]

I use the cheapest pva glue I can buy.

Apply to one side only and clamp with tweezers for a few minutes. The least amount of glue you can use the better.

Sometimes you need to use your fingers to clamp instead.

Tim

[JohnGay]

Sounds like a common new modelers error. To Much glue (-= Especially with Elmers, which is my favourite. You only need a tiny amount spread pretty thinly and then press tightly with fingers, tweezers or what ever fits. And then give it about twice as long as you think it'll need to set permanently.

[Kevin WS]

I also use cheap white glue.

A blob on scrap paper, and I then pick up a bit on the end of a dental probe, toothpick whatever.

Apply sparingly. Too much will warp the paper. Then hold together - fingers, steel rule or whatever is appropriate.

Practise on some scrap. You'll quickly get the hang of it.

With white glue if some oozes at the joint, wipe it off quickly with your finger, or a toothpick etc. if it is in a joint.

Enjoy!

[ronv]

Yep... I was using too much glue. I've now tried it with a very small amount and only on one side. It actually grabs quicker with only a little glue. Ya'll are going to make a paper modeler out of me yet. Thanks lots.

[diegoacebal06]

Hello Ronv, I use similar techniques as @Rubenandres77.

I use scholar white glue and use my fingers to hold the pieces....and blow a little to faster.
After some seconds I remove the surplus glue helping me with a little stick.

Regards from Argentina.

[rmks2000]

Just to add, if you spray a couple of light coats of matte clear varnish on both sides of the card, the chances for warpage when gluing will be a lot less. The varnish also protects the model from fingerprints and makes it easy to wipe off any glue smears. Spray a final protective coat of matte or gloss after the model is completed.

[Wad Cutter]

A expert model buy the name of Willygoat took me under his wing and ever question, he was right on the money. We all started with white glue but he told me about Aileen's "Tacky Glue" and my glue problems went away. Also spraying the prints first with Krylon matte spray for sealing paper helps with glue and clean up. I use a needle nose pliers to bring the parts together and to seal but still us a clamp of some kind to hold till the glue has a chance to set. Clamps are a different subject all together. Bright your questions here and you'll get your answers. Just remember, if your in a hurry then this isn't the hobby for you. wc