Need Help

**herky** · #1 09-09-2016, 04:22 PM

OK so here goes.
When i purchase a kit in printed form i always scan it into pc to cover for the uncomming stuffs ups when i build it.
Just purchased 2 models from hmv and i have a problem.
They are the Hamburg and Sloman Alstertor.
Great models as all theirs are but the problem for me is with their hull design.
Sheets for hull parts are printed front and back with the cutting outline on the back.There are NO cutting lines on the front of the sheet which is the coloured part,Are you still with me so far?
So my problem is this.I cannot get back of sheet with the all important cutting lines to line up with front when reprinting.the only way i can think of doing it is to print front and back seperatly then use the back sheets as template to cut front sheets.
P.S. Im a computer/printer thickie but even the printshop where i sometimes get reprinting done are struggling with this
any other suggestions?????

**Madbrit** · #2 09-09-2016, 07:53 PM

If you can gain access to a light box it should be possible to line up the front and back sheets, placing one over the other. If possible put registration marks on one sheet the, once the second is aligned carefully trace/copy the registration marks. You might also be able to trace through any cutting or fold lines.
That's my suggestion, hope it helps

Derek

**NevadaBlue** · #3 09-09-2016, 08:02 PM

Just an idea...

The software that is used with the Silhouette cutters is a free download. It has an outline function among LOTS of useful features. You could import the scanned 'backside' that has the cut lines, strip the cutlines and overlay them on the front and save the whole thing.

I keep finding uses for the software. Now if I could just uncover the Curio cutter and use it!

**herky** · #4 09-09-2016, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madbrit

If you can gain access to a light box it should be possible to line up the front and back sheets, placing one over the other. If possible put registration marks on one sheet the, once the second is aligned carefully trace/copy the registration marks. You might also be able to trace through any cutting or fold lines.
That's my suggestion, hope it helps

Derek

managed the job sort of along your ideas.waited for a bright sunny nz spring morning and place sheets up on window.marked points around edges of sheets for reference.got a close enough result.printer tells me if i had taken the original pages to them rather than sending scans they could have possibly matched them up.
will remember this for when i start second model.wondering if hmv plan to do this with all their ship models in the future

**Madbrit** · #5 09-09-2016, 09:58 PM

Glad to have been of assistance. Good luck with your build.

Derek

**herky** · #6 09-09-2016, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madbrit

Glad to have been of assistance. Good luck with your build.

Derek

thanks will remember light box plan for next time

**Tex** · #7 09-12-2016, 12:52 AM

Hi Herky:
Another idea would be to cut/punch small holes (irregular pattern; as little as three holes should do) in between some parts, wherever there's enough space, put (not glue) some colored paper over the holes (from the back) when scanning, then print out on cardstock or paper roughly half the thickness of the original sheets. Then, if you cut/punch out those holes on your printouts, you should be able to properly align those two sheets and you can glue them back-to-back...
I hope this may help you some if you have no access to a light box. :-)

**herky** · #8 09-12-2016, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tex

Hi Herky:
Another idea would be to cut/punch small holes (irregular pattern; as little as three holes should do) in between some parts, wherever there's enough space, put (not glue) some colored paper over the holes (from the back) when scanning, then print out on cardstock or paper roughly half the thickness of the original sheets. Then, if you cut/punch out those holes on your printouts, you should be able to properly align those two sheets and you can glue them back-to-back...
I hope this may help you some if you have no access to a light box. :-)

now that seems like a great idea.got the sloman alsteror to build so will try hull pieces like that

**herky** · #9 10-01-2016, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tex

Hi Herky:
Another idea would be to cut/punch small holes (irregular pattern; as little as three holes should do) in between some parts, wherever there's enough space, put (not glue) some colored paper over the holes (from the back) when scanning, then print out on cardstock or paper roughly half the thickness of the original sheets. Then, if you cut/punch out those holes on your printouts, you should be able to properly align those two sheets and you can glue them back-to-back...
I hope this may help you some if you have no access to a light box. :-)

tried your idea out on hmv parts.works great thanks for the tip

**herky** · #10 12-03-2016, 06:17 PM

Ok question but didnt want to start new thread for what i hope will be a quick answer.need a formula.i have an airliner without fuselage formers.at original scale it didnt need them.at larger scale it does.using the fuselage sections before they are rolled into tubes how do you calculate the diameter the the card formers need to be to fit inside after rolling.hope the question makes sense