coloring edges

[twg48]

I just finished reading through the various posts, and all seemed like they would work to varying degrees. The problem is that "one size does not necessarily fit all" it depends on the individual type paper being used.

I have had VERY good luck across several different paper types using something called
EXPO low odor chisel point DRY ERASE marker.

They are available at STAPLES. The key term to remember, however, is DRY ERASE.

[Butelczynski]

If anyone asked me for one solution to edges I'd say soft graphite pencil 4B. Not perfect but cost effective measure.

[Dave Pete]

A lot depends on the color you are trying to match to. The easiest solution would be a small set of cheap watercolors and small brush. You can mix the colors to match what you need. Just keep it relatively dry and a light touch. the 4B pencil mentioned above, is a good choice for black or dark grey edges. I would also suggest coloring the edges before assembly.

[cardist]

Hi all,

I have read through all of this thread, what a great topic! This has been one area I have investigated and experimented with for years.

So, for my penn'orth, I have used most of the methods discussed here, but my favourites are;

Faber Castel - Pitt artist pens. These use Indian ink so are waterproof and do not bleed into the paper; I use Warm greys - III 272, IV 273 and V 274. These will match any colour in the RYB spectrum and are particularly useful for dull camo colours. The Cold greys, 233 to 235 are more useful in the blue range.

For the 'high end' finishes I use artist's acrylic paint applied with a wooden toothpick. This method was demonstrated to me by a Polish modeller. You can mix any colour with the basics; red, yellow, blue along with black and white. The small tubes I use have lasted years.

Thanks for keeping this one going and happy papering to all.

[Don Boose]

Bernie - Thanks for this pukka gen on the most useful F-C colors! I am always learning new things. I've made a note for future reference.

As you once pointed out to me, Tombow ABT brush pens seem to be interchangeable with F-C Pitt artist pens.

In my experience, they work less well on folded edges. For folded edges, I use Caran d'ache Neocolor II water soluble wax crayons (one source: [url=http://www.dickblick.com/products/caran-dache-neocolor-ii-artists-crayons/). They can also be used like watercolors by dipping a brush in water and then swabbing color from the side of the crayon in order to get into tight places. The crayons can also be sharpened to a point. It was Alan Wheeler who put me on to these.

Best,

Don

[ReynoldsSlumber]

Originally Posted by Don Boose

As you once pointed out to me, Tombow ABT brush pens seem to be interchangeable with F-C Pitt artist pens.

Howdy Don, Tombow ABT Pro markers are the ones I tried that had way too much bleed. I was going to get Faber-Castell Pitt pens, given the numerous recommendations. Is there actually a difference in bleed between the two?

[Don Boose]

Interesting to hear your experience with Tombow. I haven't had that problem and wonder if we used different papers.

I recommend you get one of the Pitt pens and try it out. I would be glad to hear of the results.

Don

[ReynoldsSlumber]

Originally Posted by Don Boose

I haven't had that problem and wonder if we used different papers.

Maybe so, lately my favorite paper is 80 lb text/118 gsm Canson XL Pen & Ink art paper. I get the impression that most people on here use "digital"/printer paper/cover stock, when printing from digital plans? Will give the Pitt pens a go.

Really recommend Canson Pen & Ink paper for 1/100ish models. That paper has decent whiteness, especially considering it's an art paper, and it is smooth enough that it doesn't feather inkjet ink the way that textured art papers (which is most art papers) do. Meanwhile the Canson Pen & Ink paper is as just stiff as the same weight of cover stock while being much more resilient against shaping and glue moisture, a joy to work with. The durability is especially important for the glider conversions that I make. I do have to trim the width of each sheet to fit my printer, a very minor inconvenience.