Yes! Paste... any thoughts?

[Kugelfang]

Has anyone used Yes! Paste for laminating? Claims to prevent curling. Scrap bookers seem to like it.

More info at Amazon link.

--jeff

[John Wagenseil]

I have used Nori brand paste to laminate printed paper to thicker card.
I spread a thin layer paste on the card (a cake icing spreader is good for this),
lay on the paper, put that between two sheets of wax paper,
roll flat with a rolling pin (the paste squeeze out will be held by the wax paper and will not smear the papers you are gluing
then put the wax paper/laminate sandwich between stacks of newspaper (the wax paper is semi permeable to moisture) and put a weighted flat object on top (glass sheet, or heavy duty baking pan, or cutting board: basically anything flat and rigid and wide enough to cover the sheets you are laminating and able to support a pile of weights).
and let it set.
If you are pasting up more than one page, just add another newspaper/wax paper/ laminate sandwich to the weighted down stack. Change the newspapers every couple of days, until the paste ups are dry enough to stay flat on their own. This last step takes a lot of patience.

[Zakopious]

It is worth a try.

I have not had good results with laminating large sheets.

Perhaps, "YES" will solve the problem.

Is said to be slow-setting so work is repositionable and ultra thick paste consistency.

Perhaps the water content is low enough to prevent ink jet images on plane paper from running and becoming blurry.

[KCStephens]

Mint flavored?

[at6]

In the 3rd and 4th grade I used to love the taste.

[Diderick A. den Bakker]

If you loved the taste at that age, it is the wrong glue for our hobby. Any PVA glue, also known as wood glue, white glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, Elmer's glue in the US, is water based. OK for book binders and for small jobs (spot glueing, filling up a cavity), but never for glueing tabs or larger: the water is immediately soaked up by the paper, the paper weakens. Any correction within more than half a minute or even less will lead to damaged tabs. Larger surfaces will always warp or curl as they dry. So: always go for an acetone based glue. I don't know the USA brand names, but the smell will always help you decide. (Don't start liking that too much: it's called glue sniffing. As a certain president would say: not good, not good).

[John Wagenseil]

Originally Posted by Diderick A. den Bakker

If you loved the taste at that age, it is the wrong glue for our hobby .... is water based...... Larger surfaces will always warp or curl as they dry. .... .

That is why I let my paste ups dry out under a weighted flat plate, between newspaper sheets (like pressing flowers). I agree with Diderick that using solvent based adhesives eliminates the curl problem, but in my area very few stores sell large tubes of solvent based adhesives.
(one of the flower pressing instructionals I looked at used parchment paper rather than wax paper. I have not tried parchment paper, but if paste does not adhere to it, it might be better than wax paper since it is more permeable. )

I went to the big city last weekend. A Vietnamese market sold a pound of sticky rice flour for $1.50. That would make a lot of paste and leave enough left over flour to make cookies. They also had rice starch which can be used to make paste.

[John Wagenseil]

How to make and use traditional Japanese rice starch paste
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...HW3mXjNbBjGAMQ

Other homemade adhesives
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnho49NLVpA

[Kugelfang]

Well, if you're buying paste for the taste, I think you need a different hobby!

I know any water based adhesive is going to be problematic in paper modeling. But I find myself searching for simpler, more ecologically conscious solutions these days so I don't really feel the need to go for solvent based glues.

I hadn't considered making my own pastes. That's an intriguing idea. We make our own laundry detergent and fabric softener, so making a starch based glue might not be too different. These recipes appear to have too much water to be usable for this hobby but I wonder if maybe you could substitute isopropal alcohol or something along those lines. (Does paper absorb alcohol like it does paper?) Hmmm....

--jeff

[Doubting Thomas]

Yes Glue is mostly used like you said in your first post... for the scrap book hobby people.

I have used it in working with wallpapers for dollhouses because it is very sticky. That's why someone suggested using a putty knife or similar tool to spread it onto the paper/cardstock.

For dollhouse wallpapering I have taken a 1" paintbrush and dip it into a cup a water to thin the Yes glue. I usually coat the back of the wallpaper. If the dollhouse is made out of plywood I put a layer of Yes glue on the wood to slow up the absorption.

Thinning the Yes glue allows me to position the wallpaper accurately like a postage stamp. And then use a paper towel or real cloth towel to smooth and expel any air bubbles.

Since were into paper modeling here on this forum I print my models on blank
plain bond paper, then laminate them on used printouts with the text facing the inside of the assembled model. Usually two or three layers. Using what Diderick called White Glue, School Glue...etc. If spread thinly with a brush.

I then use the same method someone else suggested to laminate. Glue printed model to one layer of bond...place between wood, particle board or acrylic sheets and weigh down with heavy books, bricks, metal weights. Wait two hours or overnight (which is better) then glue second layer & weigh down, then if needed repeat for third layer and let dry well before trying to cut out your parts.

Laminating works for 1/4" scale models or smaller. Larger 1/32 to 1/33 models get to be more difficult to laminate. I have a plan to laminate 8-1/2 by 11 sheets onto cereal box cardboard for a model airplane that I have always wanted. But I'm not sure if it will work out because the wing span will be almost a meter in length.

Hope this helps from one Jeff to another.