#1
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Asking for tips and trick
Right now im got some problem in cutting, even using a ruler to help cut some pieces but it often leave a white area in it because the outer Black Line of the template got faded and also about a round shape cut or even more weird shape i tried to use the stabing trick but the problem still the same.
Please share your tips and trick |
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#2
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For me, in general, the better tricks are:
Practice makes better. The more you cut, the more the fine movements of your hand improve. Each new model is practice for the next one. Use good tools. Make sure your ruler is straight. Some rulers after many uses get worn and become slightly curved affecting badly straight cuts. Use small scissors if necessary. There are also curved scissors that are useful for rounded shapes. I have even seen at least one modeler using nail clippers for cutting small round parts. I personally have two scissors (one big and one small), another small curved scissor, a big craft cutter, a small craft cutter, and an Xacto scalpel. They all are useful for different cuts. Some other people use other tools, or variations of this same set. For the finish of parts: use a marker, or pencil color, or watercolor to paint on the white edge of the parts. It improves a lot the finish. Hope those basic tips help. There may be other tricks. Each modeler develops their own techniques and tricks over time. But those I mentioned are general and common practice.
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Rubén Andrés Martínez A. |
#3
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I use these and have great control for where and what I need to remove......they are very precises and can remove the thinnest sliver needed.
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#4
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I second the advice on the scissors that John recommends. Very useful.
I use a modified technique for cutting straight lines borrowed from marking joinery in furniture making. I put the knife blade tip on the cutting line then slide the straight edge up to the blade and note the distance and relationship between the straight edge at the knife blade and the cutting line, then line up the straight edge with the rest of the cutting line, maintaining that same distance and relationship all along the cutting line. You then cut. It is often more effective to make several passes to cut instead of trying to cut in one pass.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#5
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100% agree with the Fisskar scissors. I have a few of them.
In regards to the straight line cutting with a ruler. Look to see how your holding whatever it is your cutting with. Even if your cutting right along the edge of the ruler, if your holding it at any sort of an angle it will miss the mark and cut too far over, or under the line you desired. Best bet no matter what your doing. Practice. Print out several kits and just cut them up. That way it doesn't matter if you make mistakes. Just do it again. Also a good way to practice glue techniques. |
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#6
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clear ruler, score the lines where you are going to cut, cut from the outside of the part, in towards the line of the part, trimming away the flash essentially. use a magnifying glass, and a shaded white lamp, or a pin light lamps right over the part. a cutting surface that you can place the pre-trimmed part on, that wont let the piece slide as you cut. [a thin coat of rubber cement on the backside, or clamped into place ].
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#7
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I use a pair of PET precision scissors for cutting detail parts. Their cutting edge is extremely precise; they are marketed for cutting photo etch frets.
Use sharp cutting edges on your hobby knives, and a metal straight edge for guiding your cut. Your ruler needs to be able to lay totally flat. Those brass-edged wooden rulers will work but the brass edge will get nicked and cut by your knife, and this style ruler makes it hard to keep your cutting edge right on the part you're cutting. An all steel small ruler works better. I find a metal probe to be a useful tool for moving parts, scribing fold lines, and forming small curves and rolled parts. And get a cutting matt! Olfa and Fiskars make good ones. Color your cut edges; it will makes a major difference in the appearance of a finished model. Grey is a good general color as it compliments most any other color; it is especially great on model planes as it makes panel lines look realistic regardless of the marking scheme on the airplane. Same with armored vehicles. Colored pencils or markers that don't bleed are your friends here. Try the Prismacolor brand. Experiment! Hope this helps! Wyvern |
#8
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I can remember where I got it (sorry) but I have a pair of rulers with a handle on top they are very handy at keeping fingers out of the danger zone and allow perfect placement and very accurate cuts with the knife.......
I'll post a pic if y'all want, maybe someone will know where I got them |
#9
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Micro Mark has a steel ruler with a handle
Straight Edge, 12 Inches Long You could probably find something similar from another source. I use a Helix Safety Ruler model 32046 Another tip to help in making cuts is very, very, very good lighting. Nice and bright and positioned to reduce shadows.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#10
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Dear dzakman:
Where the light source is is very important you cant have shadow from the edge of the ruler because you may think the ruler is on the line and it's not. There is an old wood carvers saying if you can shave with the blade then you can carve with it, in paper modeling the tip of the blade has to be really sharp to glide along the ruler Learn and Enjoy, Miles |
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