Paper Hardener

[Zakopious]

Originally Posted by a380

can't remember the last time i read about women's nails catching fire due to this product.

All that I am asking is that someone who has the nitrocellulose nail hardener burn a strip of hardened paper and see if it burns faster than normal paper.
It may not, but until someone tries it, we do not know for sure.

[zubie]

There are some videos on youtube (most made by surprisingly careless people) and it does appear to have a considerably lower flash point than paper, meaning it catches well before the paper itself does. I had totally forgotten about the exploding billiard balls in Western saloons story.

Best one is chemist who ignites dried polish on a glass slide over a flame, but not in direct contact. Burns away pretty quickly. I would suggest that smokers do not use this method for hardening your models.

I may well have to rethink my use of the stuff. Probably not meaningful for tiny details, but for larger surfaces as a prep for sanding, I don't know.

[whulsey]

Did a quick test. Split a piece of 80 lb Wausau paper into 2 parts. Covered one on both sides and let dry 24 hours. Set both pieces on fire and by eyeball couldn't see any significant difference in flame rate.

[VinceM]

Originally Posted by cfuruti

Thanks a lot for the tip. My biggest gripe with CA-hardened paper is its shiny surface (especially detracting in military models, usually matte and dull), which is difficult to conceal: at least my acrylic paints and varnishes don't adhere well. Also, it's hard gluing anything to it. Lightly sanding could help, but very small and slender parts sometimes are so fragile, they can't be sanded, or don't have a hidden side (think of a tank turret's storage basket, or an AA missile's fins).

Wondering what would happen if you nail polished the reverse side, would the forward side be shiny like CA does? CA makes the paper hard and shiny like plastic on both sides. Dried CA is easy to paint over, and you can PVA glue a CA treated part to untreated paper. For stuff like ship propellers it's a must.

[Zakopious]

Originally Posted by whulsey

Did a quick test. Split a piece of 80 lb Wausau paper into 2 parts. Covered one on both sides and let dry 24 hours. Set both pieces on fire and by eyeball couldn't see any significant difference in flame rate.

Thank you for doing the test.
Now we know that it will not be a problem.

[Captain Wildchild]

Where did you guys get such a cheap nail hardener? I can't find anything under 7$; checked Walmart, a local pharmacy and a dollar store. Although It might be because Canada.
Also do you brush it on entire sheets or cut out parts? How much would one bottle cover? So many questions :P

On the subject of nitrocellulose:

I've heard that Russian paper modelers use nitrocellulose laquer (zaponlack) to harden sheets of paper. It is incredibly toxic and hard to find, at least in North America. It was used in automobile production, wood treatment (musical instruments), coating Christmas lights and toys, wires and bullets. Once dried it forms a gas- and humidity-proof film.
From Wikipedia: "Lacquer grade of soluble nitrocellulose is closely related to the more highly nitrated form which is used to make explosives. They become relatively non-toxic after approximately a month since at this point, the lacquer has evaporated most of the solvents used in its production."

[airdave]

If you are in Canada, then go to Dollarama, or any of the Dollar stores.
They have an aisle with nothing but Nail products, including clear nail varnish and hardener.

nitrocellulose: isn't that just dope?

I'd say they are using old style "Dope"...
which you can buy at most Hobby Shops.
Dope is what you paint on tissue (balsa models) ...to tighten and stiffen the skin.

[Captain Wildchild]

Originally Posted by airdave

If you are in Canada, then go to Dollarama, or any of the Dollar stores.
They have an aisle with nothing but Nail products, including clear nail varnish and hardener.

nitrocellulose: isn't that just dope?

I'd say they are using old style "Dope"...
which you can buy at most Hobby Shops.
Dope is what you paint on tissue (balsa models) ...to tighten and stiffen the skin.

Woow, I never heard of dope; it appears to be that though.

I'll check at the dollar store again, may be the one near me is not the best.

[whulsey]

Didn't find any at Big Lots so bought it at a grocery store (Fry's, a Kroger division), brand name (Sally Hansen) and it still was only a couple of bucks.

[Captain Wildchild]

Originally Posted by whulsey

Didn't find any at Big Lots so bought it at a grocery store (Fry's, a Kroger division), brand name (Sally Hansen) and it still was only a couple of bucks.

Oh man, then the difference in price is definitely because I'm in Canada. Sally Hansen is what I found be around 7$.