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Old 12-02-2017, 12:50 PM
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"Edge gluing"?

I'm contemplating tackling Ken West's excellent X-15A-2 and in reading through his instructions, he says various parts (such as the pieces that make up the chines) should be "edge glued" to assemble them. I've been modeling for years but I'm unfamiliar with the term.

I get what it means -- glue the edges -- but Ken says nothing about joining strips, and I'm uncertain how just gluing two or more pieces together at the edges, without any kind of backing, provides the strength necessary for shaping the pieces, etc.

Is there some technique I need to know, or should I just make joining strips?
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:52 PM
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edge glueing basically means no joining strips.
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Old 12-02-2017, 01:06 PM
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Edge glued parts are very common.
For example, if I am gluing a small part against a flat surface, I may put glue on the edges and press it against the surface.
Tabs or any sort of joiners are not required in that type of assembly.

For connecting "skins" and surface panels, Ken has a method of creating a "blanket" skin
by butt joining pre-shaped panels with a minimal amount of glue along the edges.
Note...pre-shaping the parts is extremely important here.

He then recommends bridging all seams from the back with thin paper (after the initial edge gluing has setup).

You could create your own backside "joiner strips" from thin paper and connect your panels that way right from the start.
Ken is just suggesting a method of assembly that can give you very tight seams if you edge glue first, and then apply backing strips.
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Old 12-02-2017, 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the info. I think I'll use joiner strips. I have a hard time seeing how there'll be enough tensile strength to work with edge-glued parts.
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Old 12-02-2017, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for the info. I think I'll use joiner strips. I have a hard time seeing how there'll be enough tensile strength to work with edge-glued parts.
I mostly use them where there is not enough space for joiner strips. And usually for smaller parts where strength is not that important. Unless you really want to damage the model, these edge-glued parts are connected surprisingly strong.
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Old 12-02-2017, 02:51 PM
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Hello dhanners,

have a look Ken West North Armerican X-15 1:32 (fertig) - Abgeschlossene Bauberichte - Luftfahrt - Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um Papiermodelle, Kartonmodellbau und Bastelbogen !

at post 18 and 19, you can see how I prepared the chines before gluing. Not a must, only a a suggestion...
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:30 PM
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Hello dhanners,

have a look Ken West North Armerican X-15 1:32 (fertig) - Abgeschlossene Bauberichte - Luftfahrt - Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um Papiermodelle, Kartonmodellbau und Bastelbogen !

at post 18 and 19, you can see how I prepared the chines before gluing. Not a must, only a a suggestion...
Thanks, Peaceglue. Your thread will be helpful. One of the issues I'm looking at trying to correct is the geometry of the rear chines. Ken's approach leaves them with sharp corners; in reality, they were more rounded.

I also plan on shrinking the model to 1/48th scale and doing an in-flight pose, without the tanks. (The X-15A-2 flew several times without the external tanks. Despite holding the world speed record for a winged vehicle -- until the first landing of the Space Shuttle -- the A-2 was pretty much a dog. Numerous aborted flights and in-flight failures. And it's fastest flight was its last because the heat damaged the vehicle and it was deemed unsafe to fly. Oh, for a good model of 66670 or even the pre-stretch 66671....)

Again, thanks!
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:10 AM
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Hello dhanners,

here https://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/Gallery/Photo/X-15/Small/EC93-41012-6.jpg
can everybody see what you mean. But don't underestimate the kit from Ken West. The sharp corners get less and more less from the front to the back of the plane. Some pics from my build. The series is from front to back.
Attached Thumbnails
"Edge gluing"?-chin_24.jpg   "Edge gluing"?-chin_20.jpg   "Edge gluing"?-chin_22.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:13 AM
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Oh, for a good model of 66670 or even the pre-stretch 66671....)
Same here, David. Isn't it strange almost all X-15 model designers tend to lean to the stretched A2 instead of the much sleeker and proportionally more pleasing looking pre-stretch X-15? Now, not the red-white stripey pitot-tube one, but the nickel ball nose version. The full ventral tail.The square windows. Even in plastic, the bulk of the available models is the A2.

As far as edge glueing, I often use it, You just need to have to let the white glue dry a little more to get a good direct grip. It is very convenient, especially in places you cannot reach in to press down some rogue glue tabs.

I hope you are doing well, by the way.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dhanners View Post
Thanks, Peaceglue. Your thread will be helpful. One of the issues I'm looking at trying to correct is the geometry of the rear chines. Ken's approach leaves them with sharp corners; in reality, they were more rounded.
So, if you follow ken's instructions and working with the rear section of the chines:
the rear section is made up of about five smaller sections
which are each made up of an upper, middle and lower part.
Preshape the parts, edge attach and glue each section flat, before attaching the sections side by side to build the entire rear half of the chines.

...and then gently curve the horizontal seams and apply a thin paper backing/joiner strip.
I would run a small diameter wooden dowel (with a rounded end) along the inside of the seams to give a rounded corner.

Don't forget to round off the corners of the internal formers too.

Even burnishing the outside corner after complete assembly will give you a more rounded look.
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