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Old 07-04-2009, 03:20 PM
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Instead of the tape (Don's adhesive concerns) how about salvaging some stiff package wrap celophane?

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Old 07-04-2009, 03:38 PM
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A couple of variations on the theme...you can print the instrument panel on a flat surface and either make your own or use aftermarket bezels (instrument surrounds) to get a better 3D appearance; these can also be filling with something like Krystal Klear to both get the 'glass' appearance and also to blend the edges of the surround into the dial...
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:29 PM
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Micro Crystal Klear (or however it's spelled?) worked wonders for me in my previous plastic life. I'm out at the moment and have been using Aleene's Tacky Clear, but it doesn't seem to be as good...
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:59 PM
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Thank you everybody.
G-S hypo or Micro Crystal Clear are looking like a way to go for me.
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:52 PM
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I think there is an Aileen's flavor that is specifically formulated for drying completely clear.
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:48 AM
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If I understand this... it is how I would make the control panel...

Print two copy. Punch the holes for the dial in the outside copy. On the inside copy, paint the dial area with the Aleene's Paper Glaze. Then when it is try you can glue it together. I think if you need you could put more Paper Glaze on top of the cut out hole you make but it is not necessary?
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:56 AM
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The trick that p*****c modelers use is future floor polish (aka pledge with future shine). It is basically a clear acrylic. You put a drop on the instrument face and let it dry and it ends up rock hard and clear.
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:10 AM
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in my plastic modeling days, I used a drop of tamiya clear
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:20 AM
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I used this stuff;
Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker.
The glue is used for canopies, windows and windshields, You can actualy make small windows with it, should work for instument panels
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