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  #11  
Old 11-06-2018, 11:59 AM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdave View Post
But can I add one more thing?
Pay attention to the alcohol solution you buy and use.
Bottles of pure 100% alcohol isn't as easy to find.
Most are not pure alcohol...most are alcohol and water solutions.
Some have a very high water content...more than 50/50.
And some solutions also have oils, moisturizers...like glycerin.
Because they are often used in Finger Nail painting, cleaning, etc.
Very good point Dave - Something I did not consider.
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  #12  
Old 11-13-2018, 04:42 PM
ETG ETG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penikas View Post
Howdy,
Is there a video showing the joining of fuselage sections?
I am still striving for a perfect fit.
BP

Bob, when I look at your models, WE are the ones who should ask YOU how to build models....!!! ;-)

Since the invention of paper modeling, people have been struggling to get the perfect model with the perfect finish.
Well....here's the truth: you'll never be able to do it ! For the simple reason that paper simply doesn't want to cooperate the way we want it to.
But....you can get close. Very close.

Getting a perfect seam depends on having the following things :

- The correct thickness of paper. Ordinary typing paper will be way too thin for most models. Even 100 grams is too thin. 180...200 grams would be fine.
I design my models to be used with 200 grams. 250 grams could be used for large models with large parts.

- The type of glue you use. Water based glues : absolutely forbidden !! The water will absolutely warp the paper, making a nice seam impossible.
Synthetic glue is the best. It smells of acetone.
I do use water based glue, but only for small parts, since synthetic glue dries too quickly and creates a film, immediately, making it very hard for small
parts with a little bit of glue to adhere to the other part.

- Pre-shaping the part is necessary. If a part needs to be round, you MUST roll it into shape before you add glue. If a part already has the right shape,
the glued area won't be under any type of stress, making it possible for the glue joint to dry and harden in its pre-formed shape.

- Rolling the joint (no....NOT the cigarette with "something" added...........) just before the glue has fully dried will push the ends firmly onto the connector,
making the seam a bit flatter, creating a better looking seam. Roll. Do NOT rub, because that may make the ink, and the paper (!!), glossy, which you may
not want if the model is printed on matt paper.

- Pre-forming should be done on a mouse mat, your lap, or a couch with hard foam. The rod you use to roll the paper must be of hard steel. Perfectly round
(VERY important !!!!) and clean. Different diameter rods are recommended.

- DRY FIT the parts !! Then add the connectors. Glue on one side, only. Dry fit again. Make corrections if needed. Add glue and gently position the other side.

- Pre-shape the connectors, too !!

- A few months or years of practice.

See.........???
Easy !! ;-)

I have designed and built plenty of rockets, I therefor had lots of practise. Now, for me it is easy.

In the pictures below you can see some old photos of an old model. All of my Delta rockets ( and family) are perfectly round with (near) perfect seam lines.

________
Erik.

PS. Because of some other hobbies, I have learned that paper is one of the few things that have become LESS in quality, instead of improving over time.
As you may know, I also study and build telescopes (paper replicas and near perfect copies of originals). I also use 400 year old paper ( and older) and this
paper is far more pleasant to work with than modern paper. That old paper is far more "predictable". No surprises, no strange warping in unwanted places.
Frans Laurentius, who also lives here, in Middelburg, is a world-renowned expert in paper and glass. He tought me a lot about paper. His father Theo,
equally qualified, can also talk for hours about paper. They showed me the most beautiful paper in existance. I once held 1600 year old paper in my hands
and I challenge ANY paper manufacturer to copy THAT quality !!!! No way. Nobody can make such nice paper anymore. Not in large quantities, anyway.

Modern paper is rubbish compared to the "real stuff"!!! Trust me !!
But printing your models on 400 year old paper will make your hobby a VERY expensive one. So let's forget about that.
Until then, just learn to live with less perfect seams. There are more important things in life to worry about.
Attached Thumbnails
Basic paper modeling videos-making-cylinders-01.jpg   Basic paper modeling videos-making-cylinders-02.jpg   Basic paper modeling videos-making-cylinders-03.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 11-14-2018, 04:20 AM
hrogers hrogers is offline
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Maybe you can use a bit water to separate glued parts when accidentally glue a wrong part to it, I've done it previously - but then it's was simple black and white printing - not sure if it will damage color versions. Don't know if it will work every time..

Now another question - I notice the person use a blunt knife to smooth the edges after cutting the paper - Any particular reason why ?
There is still a lot of tricks I must learn !!
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  #14  
Old 11-14-2018, 04:54 AM
bigpetr bigpetr is offline
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To smooth out the wedge from the cutting
__________________
WIP: X-wing (Imcold model), Wasteland skiff (own design)

Extensions for X-wing
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  #15  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:04 AM
hrogers hrogers is offline
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Thanks bigpetr !!
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