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  #11  
Old 06-21-2020, 06:38 AM
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asettico asettico is offline
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Living in Italy, the most common PVA glue is Vinavil. I started using since my first models (well, it's used since the primary school... ). But, especially at the beginning, when I was at the very first steps as modeler, I did not find myself comfortable with the nozzle, as it is a little bit too much large and the drop of glue could be too much excessive.

Looking at the great hepcecob's time lapse video building his functional Rubik's cube, I discovered the Uhu's Twist & Glue, with the adjustable nozzle. The glue is clear, it does not make threads, at least until the glue is freshly opened. But when it gets dry, it crystallizes and the joint becomes fragile, as it looses flexibility. I think it's the reason for which I broke my functional Rubik's cube. I will redo it using PVA.

As you can deduce, I'm looking for my preferred tool to dose the right quantity of glue...

Then I met the Elmer's glue-all (extra-strong formula), obviously attracted by the nozzle of the 4 fl.oz. flask. My idea was to use it and then refill it with Vinavil. But I discovered that Elmer is a little bit stringer than Vinavil and it dries quicker, so I bought two 1/4 gal bottles!

In more recent times I use both Vinavil and Elmer, because I somehow learned to use different tools to spread glue and to arrange the parts while drying.
I think that some advantages of the PVA are that it gets clear when it dries, it's flexible and strong.

Finally, I use stick glue to laminate wide surfaces, because it does not moisten the paper and it keeps a strong grip.
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:12 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asettico View Post
Living in Italy, the most common PVA glue is Vinavil. I started using since my first models (well, it's used since the primary school... ). But, especially at the beginning, when I was at the very first steps as modeler, I did not find myself comfortable with the nozzle, as it is a little bit too much large and the drop of glue could be too much excessive.
Never apply white glue directly from the bottle. Drop a little on a smooth surface (polyethylene is best since, once dry, PVA can be easily removed with your fingernails and the surface reused; I use the cap of a deodorant spray bottle), then use a toothpick to get as much as needed and apply to your model. The toothpick can also be used to spread the glue uniformly. Tip: before first using, coat the toothpick with cyanoacrylate glue: this way, after a work session just wash it in water to reuse later.
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Originally Posted by asettico View Post
Finally, I use stick glue to laminate wide surfaces, because it does not moisten the paper and it keeps a strong grip.
It does moisten the paper, but much less than PVA. And, in my experience, its adhesive power doesn't last as long.

Last edited by cfuruti; 06-29-2020 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Fix typos
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:16 AM
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asettico asettico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfuruti View Post
Never apply white glue directly from the bottle. Drop a little on a smooth surface (polyethylene is best since, once dry, PVA can be easily removed with your fingernails and the surface reused; I use the cap of a deodorant spray bottle), then use a toothpick to get as much as needed and apply to your model. The toothpick can also be used to spread the glue uniformly.
Yep! This is a lesson I learned with the experience... after doing some mess!

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Tip: before first using, coat the toothpick with cyanoacrylate glue: this way, after a work session just wash it in water to reuse later.
That's interesting. I use "naked" toothpick and, from time to time, I have to clean it, scraping the dry glue off of it.

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Originally Posted by cfuruti View Post
And, in my experience, its adhesive power doesn't last as long.
I have noticed this, I have to pay attention to spread well the glue on all the surface to laminate, in order not to leave any air "bubbles".

Thanks for the suggestions!
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2020, 05:43 AM
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dhanners dhanners is offline
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When I'm in the U.S., I absolutely love Lineco neutral-pH PVA adhesive. It is an artist-grade glue and can usually be found in art-supply stores.

I know some folks swear by Aleene's tacky glue, but in the instances where I needed a glue with quick-tack qualities, I preferred 3M's offering. It always seemed easier to use for me.

Currently in Cyprus, I'm using some PVA glue I got at an art-supply store (can't recall the brand) but I have to dilute it with some water to get it to a workable consistency.
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What glue to use?-img_9755.jpg   What glue to use?-img_9756.jpg  
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2020, 06:56 AM
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asettico asettico is offline
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When I'm in the U.S., I absolutely love Lineco neutral-pH PVA adhesive.
Good! It can be useful also to build books, without have acid substances that can deteriorate the paper.
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  #16  
Old Yesterday, 07:29 AM
blackarrow blackarrow is offline
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Here in Germany we have PVA which is probably just normal white glue for wood (for example Ponal Express) and UHU Alleskleber.

Most of the time I use PVA, especially for smaller parts. I could be easily applied with a small brush and works pretty quick. However for bigger parts I don't use it, because it makes paper very wet which deforms everything.

UHU Alleskleber is fine, but I have to apply it using toothpick (no brush) and it makes often threads (like spider net) because it dries very quickly. Good for bigger parts and gluing some additional parts made not out of paper only. However, I recently found out that PVA works fine when I have to glue wire parts as well, if it is applied on the right spots.
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  #17  
Old Yesterday, 11:06 AM
mash mash is offline
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Welcome to Colorado. I've been using Aleene's turbo tacky glue. Not sure where you are in Colorado. You can go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels to find it. You can also find a sample pack that has small bottles , 66 oz, That has the original tacky glue, clear, fast grab and quick dry, if you want to experiment and see which works best. If you are in the Denver or Colorado Springs area You may also try Meiningers Art Supply or Guiry's color source for paper and glue.
I also apologize Colorado is usually not as hot as Australia. Were just having a weird week
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  #18  
Old Yesterday, 02:47 PM
cfuruti cfuruti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asettico View Post
I have noticed this, I have to pay attention to spread well the glue on all the surface to laminate, in order not to leave any air "bubbles".
I found this cheap masonry tool for plasterlike stuff useful when laminating:
What glue to use?-img_1934_640.jpg

  • it's polyethylene, so easy to clean
  • about 1.3mm thick, its "("-like profile fits comfortably in your hand
  • edges are sharp on the convex side and curved on the concave one (highlight on the top left corner), so glide effortlessly, spreading glue uniformly
Probably the same effect could be achieved by sanding smooth the edges of a credit card, on one side only.
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  #19  
Old Yesterday, 07:56 PM
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ridetheory ridetheory is offline
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I mostly use a thin, bookbinding PVA glue from Lineco, because I can spread it across a tab and control the tackiness. I also use Aleene's Tacky Glue when I want something thicker, and occasionally I break out a big, fat, Zig 2-Way Glue pen when I need to laminate something quickly.
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