#11
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Quote:
Sometimes it is easier to just give up on folding a tiny part and instead cut it along the score line, then glue the pieces together at the same angle they would have been if folded. |
#12
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I don’t remember who told me this, but for picking up the tiniest pieces, lick the tip of a toothpick and touch the part. Just enough moisture for it to stick.
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#13
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Small parts
No matter how careful you fold/cut small parts when you go to fold the paper you are asking the outer face of the part to assume a larger circumference than the inner face. This will frequently cause the paper to delaminate. You don’t notice this on larger pieces because there’s enough microscopic give to the fibres to adjust to the different circumferences.
I have found that sealing the edges of these small parts with a minute amount of PVA can prevent the delamination without changing the dimensions or the texture of the printed face. If you use enamels to colour your exposed edges this often accomplishes the same thing. Sometimes I will elect to do both. Just a thought on a rainy West Coast afternoon! |
#14
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I've always had the same thinking...until now.
For something to delaminate, it has to be laminated in the first place. While something like photo paper is different layers of material laminated together, cardstocks and paper are pulp. And pulp isn't assembled (as sheets of paper) in layers. Its a mishmash of threads and fibres and clumps and clots. The outer "layers" of curved/shaped paper would have to stretch and tear while the inner "layers" might have to compress, but it can't delaminate in the common sense of the word. Hmmmm?
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#15
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Small Parts
Folding/manipulating small parts can result in the card stock delaminating.
Try sealing the exposed edges first. |
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#16
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I have a collection of tweezers similar to AirDave's collection. I usually prefer the shorter ones with small tips. For very small parts, I'll hold the part with a clamping tweezer and fold & glue it with an ordinary tweezer.
For scribing parts, I tried several tools and what seems to work best is a T-pin with the head cut off, mounted in a hobby blade handle. I keep the handle as close to horizontal as possible; the goal is to compress the surface of the paper rather than to cut it. And as noted above, scoring is much easier if you do before you cut out the part.
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#17
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Sharp points can be ground down. And check sewing supply stores and departments for a wide variety of tweezers. Clamping tweezers can be found at Micromark or for less money at American Science & Surplus --https://www.sciplus.com/ Get their catalog; it's a hoot and full of useful (and useless) stuff at "fell-off-the-truck" prices.
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I'm an adult? Wait! How did that happen? How do I make it stop?!. My Blog: David's Paper Cuts My paper models and other mischief |
#18
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When I speak of “delaminating”, perhaps a better term is edge separation. All card stock has a grain and scoring/folding with, or against, the grain can affect how the paper edges hold together.
I have recently began to do the majority of my scoring on the reverse side of the parts, and use an Etchmate to actually fold the piece. But on small parts I still seal the edges. |
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