#1
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Best glue for ship frames
Starting a build and was wondering what would be the best glue for gluing the ship frames and best method to apply.
Thanks |
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#2
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I can't speak for ship models per say but for the under structure on armor kits I use thin CA glue. Once the parts are locked together in place I apply a few drops to the joint and the capillary action of the card stock draws the glue into the joint and dries almost instantly.
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#3
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Thanks I’ll give it a try!
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#4
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I use budapren or contact cement it is very similar to budapren ....I would suggest to use something that is not water based glue
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Passion is the key.... |
#5
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Hi Sambini,
We're at a similar stage. I'm into my 7th build (all small-ish projects) and have discovered that PVA isn't the really the one for large paper pieces. It contains water which warps the paper of course and hardens by evaporation of the water. You'll see for yourself but I got 'dimples' 'ripples' whatever the term or expression. Have you seen this post by Rick:http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/457266-post2.html Heres the result I got yesterday glueing the keel of JSC's 'BUTE'... |
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#6
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Always use a solvent- (acetone)based glue - check the characteristic smell. Avoid waterbased glues like the plague (or corona).
D.
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See my site (Dutch and English): https://www.zeistbouwplaten.nl/ Visit my Tumblr photo collection: https://papermodelsinternational.tumblr.com/ |
#7
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im a UHU general purpose fan and have been for 30 years , i hate pva glues but each to their own whatever works for you
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Carborundum Illegitimi Ne Herky |
#8
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Below you will see the keel of JSC’s ‘BUTE’ taking shape.
Used UHU for the side frames ‘open boxes’ as JSC’s instructions call them. Had a spatula handy (scrap card stock) to spread. Noticed that, strangely enough, it dries quite ‘schnell’!! No particular problem on the ‘boxes’, but I took a giant leap of faith for fixing the car deck by applying 2 seams of glue the full length of the keel box, then also on the 8 ‘boxes’. Needless to say with a fast glue made sure to practice fold and dry fit each part thoroughly first. Having started the ball rolling was apprehensive. But cardeck fitted first time. AND! Very happy with the result. Not a single blemish. And just to say that the JSC kit fits perfectly. Love the printing quality and precision of the parts. |
#9
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See pics below....
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#10
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If you use PVA, I recommend Alene's Tacky Glue. True to its name, it goes on tackier - almost like Elmers or Sobo in their final stages of curing. As such, it tacks faster and seems less 'wet' - the lower water content reduces the chance the paper will bubble. When I have to use PVA, I try to use the heaviest weight card stock I can without running into shapeability/dimensional issues. The thicker/more rigid the stock, the less likely it will bubble.
CA also works great, but its quick cure time can be unforgiving. Testors make a solvent-based wood glue (comes in a tube similar to their plastic model cement) that I have had good results with. It's probably about the same as UHU. To cover large areas, definitely go with a solvent type glue - 3M makes various strengths in spray cans - just use thin coats because they can bubble the paper too. |
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