Using laminating film

[b747driver]

At present I can't use any type of spray clear finish .can ready to use laminating film be used? if so .prior to scoring folds

[rickstef]

if you were to go this route, you would need to get the thinnest lamination possible, and off hand, I can't recall what that was or is, office supply retail life was a long time ago.
But when you cut the part, you would risk some delamination of the plastic and paper.
Another option would be to only laminate the printed side, and then score on the reverse, and using a window or a light box to help you score the lines properly.

your local hardware stores should be open, and you should be able to get a rattle can of Krylon clear.

[b747driver]

I was afraid of that I can't use any type of areosol cause of a sinus infection even with a mask . And I'm building a FDS FDNY Rescue Services truck rescaled to 1/87. And it maybe the copier at Staples .but just by glueing the truck body together .colors are all smeared and smudged .. truck looks all worn out☹️☹️

[Burning Beard]

Have you tried using glossy photo paper or brochure paper (cheaper). You should be able to get them both in around a 65 lb card stock, they can be printed on inkjet printers and have a really nice finish.

[Kevin WS]

B747driver - maybe the simpler solution is just to get a friend to spray your models for you?

[airdave]

I've used laminating film on dozens of models, and I've talked about it many times here.

I've only tried twice to laminate an entire model to create 'glossy' paper.
I printed my model sheets then applied a single layer of gloss laminating film to the printed side.
Then cut out my parts.

There were a number of issues.
The biggest being how thick it makes the paper,
how resistant the sheet is to rolling and curving
and the fact that my paper glue wouldnt stick it.
(I had to remove the laminating film from overlapping areas that needed to be glued)

In the end it was more trouble than it was worth.

I still use laminating film for smaller parts...its great on windows and glass areas to add a low gloss.
It can be used on some canopies, laminating from both sides, but it makes the parts very thick.

I agree with getting someone else to clearcoat for you (if you can't).
I clearcoat printed sheets before i build, and I clearcoat models after assembly.
Both with varying effects.
I used to use only matte sprays and specialized photo and art fixatives.
Now, I use a lot of gloss clear lacquer.
Sprayed sparingly in light coats, it leaves a very low sheen and seals sheets well.
A light coat after assembly also brings out colours nicely.

[b747driver]

I got a roll of Duck laminating film,and used it on part of a model. It took a score good over it and the wood work glue has a strong hold,, clear packing tape works just as well..I'm only doing this for models printed from Staples...office Max copy's are excellent