Eze Dope

[Kurt J]

Has anyone used Delux Eze Dope to harden paper or card?

Kurt

[mbauer]

No.

But have used Minwax wood hardener. Works great, if applied in light layers, ink doesn't run or fade.

Mike

[Gil]

Harvey S. Picker

5.0 out of 5 stars Good stuff. But I learned of something better.
Reviewed in the United States on December 20, 2014
Verified Purchase
After searching for alternatives to old-fashioned cellulose dope for sealing and strengthening tissue coverings on model airplanes--and finding some of the ones suggested by other model builders to be unsatisfactory--I was intrigued when I stumbled upon a discussion of Eze Dope on line. My search is over. I have tried Eze Dope on a test framework (not wanting to mess up a model I spent a good deal of time constructing) and I am very happy with the results. Happy enough, in fact, that I just ordered an extra bottle to have on hand.

Since Eze Dope is best applied thinned with water (the recommended proportion is 30% Eze Dope, 70% water), one container can last a while.

There is an excellent article describing in detail the application of Eze Dope in the Jan-Feb 2014 issue of the British magazine AeroModeller. The article is available on line, but I was sent a pdf of it by John Bristow of Deluxe Materials (manufacturer of Eze Dope). And that's another thing: I sent Deluxe Materials a couple of questions about Eze Dope earlier today, and slightly over an hour later had an informative response from Mr. Bristow. Count me a very happy customer.

------------------------Updated 9/17/2019
After reading an article in Model Aviation, I decided to try Minwax Polycrylic (satin finish) thinned with water to 33% Polycrylic. One coat with a wide (1" brush) gave me better results than I got with two or three coats of Eze Dope. See photo. So, while Eze Dope gave me a good enough alternative to nitrated dope as a tissue sealer, Polycrylic is a decidedly better one.

https://www.amazon.com/Eze-Dope-Tiss...ews/B004SKODTW

48 people found this helpful

-Gil

[Kurt J]

Okay, I’m a newbie to paper modeling so I have what is probably a basic question that everyone knows but me. I you coat the paper with Polycrylic for a hull say to begin preparing the surface ( sanding, grinding, fillers and such). The surface has become then mostly a utrethane or acrylic substance correct? What type of adhesive would be the best (as far as ease of use and strength) for adhering the planking or final top layer to it?

I’m trying to avoid some absolute failures in my learning curve. I know there will still be a number of them. But one or two less would be nice.

Thanks,

Kurt

[rickstef]

Are you planning on sailing any of the ships you build?
As this is the only reason I could see going this route.

If the model is going to be a static display, the dope or any other hardener is going to be overkill.
Most ship builders here on the forum use the same glue they use for the hull as they do for the superstructure parts.
There are some people who will sand and putty the hull, and then repaint for a "solid" look to the hull.

Rick

[Kurt J]

Rick, No sailing. I’m starting with a Shipyard 1/96 scale Le Coureur from 1776. From most of the builds I’ve read they try and get the best subsurface they can. Overkill doesn’t bother me in fact that’s my norm ( I know that’s not always good. But what the hey.). Even gluing the sub deck to the framework, there’s all those contact points so I would think slower is better there.

Kurt

[rickstef]

In that case i would just putty and sand

There are some builds detailing this method in order to get the planking to fit better

[Kevin WS]

Dope I have used over the years (model aeroplanes) always darkened the tissue to a degree.

Is modern dope totally colourless?