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  #11  
Old 06-15-2020, 05:41 AM
rmks2000 rmks2000 is offline
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Great review Rick and Ray. Despite working from home and saving a three hour daily commute, I haven't had much time to build. I would be interested in seeing how these perform blades on coarse cardstock (1-2mm) when cutting formers.
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2020, 07:50 AM
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Bob,

I just cut some other formers for another kit I will be starting, and the paper was just glued to cereal box board, I would not recommend using the #11 blade, but the rounded nose blade works fine, any thicker material, I would have to suggest going to the Pen Cutter or even the heavier duty Utility knives, as the blades they use are thicker, and probably stand up better to the thicker card, might have to run multiple passes.

Rick
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2020, 07:55 AM
rmks2000 rmks2000 is offline
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Thanks Rick.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:15 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texman View Post
As Rick said, he sent me the finger precision knife, and one of each blade. As I build small scale, this would provide another viewpoint.

The handle itself is comfortable. Longer than the Fiskars handle.

The blades do a good job. However, for small scale or intricate cutting, they are
considerably thicker than the metal blades. I found it inadequate for small scale/detail
work. The blade sharpness is not a problem. I managed to knick myself with
quality in the first few tries. Its the fact they are not as flexible nor as thin as
their metal brethren.

If you have large parts, or long cuts, they would work well. Detail and small,
I am going to have to stick with the metal blades.
Hi Ray,

Was going to ask Rick about the finger one. Glad you posted the results.

How comfortable is it?

What kind of pressure needs applied compared to #11's?

I have a Fiskar version, it is worn out.

At around $30 with spare blades, wondering about worth the bucks or not on long cuts. Rick mentioned that it doesn't hunt for the bad spots on a well used mat, just wondering does it feel like it is tearing the cardstock/paper at all? Drag free glide?

If using a straight edge does it try climb onto it?

Mike
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:22 PM
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rickstef rickstef is offline
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Mike,

I find the cuts with the ceramic blades almost have a burnished feel to them.
like i mentioned, no paper cuts(**knocks on wood**) so far from anything I have cut
I have used my blades on both 32lb presentation paper and on my standard 65 index cover, no issues with tearing or bunching, first couple of cuts on the cover stock were frayed, I was still feeling out my cut pressure, once I dialed it in, every cut has been smooth, fray free.

Rick
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:24 PM
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rickstef rickstef is offline
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Mike,

On your last point, i haven't had that happen as of yet, nor have I had the blade wander off the edge because it caught an underlying groove
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2020, 08:37 PM
keithwwalker keithwwalker is offline
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I may of been unlucky, but everytime I wanted to order from slice, their #11 blades have been out of stock. Having said that, I have used their boxcutter for what seems 10 years and it held up well. I also have a Kyocera ceramic paring knife for kitchen use that is abused and the edge is chipped in several places, but other locations hold their edge. That is what determines the service life, not dulling, but chipping.

I guess the only other comment I have is that I have read some threads as to why there aren't single action ceramic razor blades for shaving. One person commented that even though ceramic blades are sharp, they are still an order of magnitude duller than a fresh razor blade. The commenter did go through the process of sharpening a ceramic blade to single action sharpness, but said it was a lot of work due to the material nature of the ceramic blade hardness.

I found another site that looks at blades under the scanning electron microscope
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/02/2...omment-page-1/

Thanks for the review!
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  #18  
Old 06-16-2020, 10:34 PM
at6 at6 is offline
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Good information to know. I'll be sticking with my old metal blades. I have a life time supply of them as it is.
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  #19  
Old 06-17-2020, 06:56 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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I too got excited with my first ceramic hobby knife.

And excited again with my circle cutter ceramic knife.

But it didn't take long for the excitement to wear off.
The blades never handled thick materials well or cut as easily and smoothly as metal blades.
And the thickness of handles, and cutter heads, made it more difficult to follow lines and precise shapes.


But these new Hobby Knife/Scalpel style replaceable blades are of particular interest.
It looks like a big step forward.
But what is the cost? initial cost, and replacement blades.
And how long will a blade last?
How well do they handle curves and intricate cuts?
How do they wear, chip, break and how often?

I found with my ceramic cutters that I was applying more force to get through cardstock and paper.
Cutting pressure...do they cut as easily as a fine metal blade?
With all the people who complain about sore fingers and knuckles (from applying pressure and force), I would think this would be an important question.

Give us a full report in a month or 6 months, etc
I will be very interested to hear.
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  #20  
Old 06-17-2020, 07:50 AM
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Dave,

Depending on the handle you want, you are looking at 10 to 13 dollars US, and a pack of replacement blades is $19.99
The company claims the blade will last up to 11x longer than a metal blade.

I did mention that for detailed or intricate cuts they are just a bit too wide, a metal blade is still my go to.

I did snap the tip off of one of the #11 looking blades the other day, and unlike the metal ones when that happens, I haven't noticed any problems with cuts.

I have had to adjust my cutting pressure with the ceramic knives, I have gone to a more lighter touch when it comes to cutting with those knives.
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