Painting paper models

[blackarrow]

Hello

I would like to paint my paper models, because it gives me opportunity not only to built model but to weather it as well (to some degree).

However, the biggest problem I encountered is that paper tend to build waves on the surface the moment it becomes wet. This is what I tried so far:

Applying Revell Aqua Color (acryl paint) directly to the paper model: if the paint it too thick, it leaves brush stroke marks, so I tend to make the paint thinner and paint more layers. But, thinner paint means more water in it and causes paper to bend badly. I applied the same color after applying hair spray (in order to protect the surface of soaking up too much water) but I didn't see any difference.

Applying Revell Enamel paint: it has nice density and doesn't leave any strokes when applied directly from the can. The paper has lot less waves, but the color doesn't look too good (sometimes too glossy).

Of course, all of these tests I made on pieces of paper, just in case anything goes wrong (as it did).

But the main problem is how to protect paper from the first layer of paint which makes it wet. Any ideas or techniques I could try? Thanks.

[rickstef]

weathering can be done with pastels or the dedicated weathering kits and pens from Tamiya.

painting the entire model will cover any graphics the designer has on the model, some of the older paper models from the former Eastern Block countries were painted because they were graphically poor, and the paint also sealed the paper.
the current thought is to just edge color the parts to hide the white cut edge, and if the builder wants to weather it, do so, and then seal with a clear spray varnish, either matte or glossy.

Rick

[SteveB]

I've tried a couple of Tamiya acrylics (matt finish) and they seemed to work ok - covered nicely, no brush marks and no rippling of the paper. Maybe different manufacturers, different finishes give different results. Might be a case of trial and error.

[RogerYoung]

Now that‘s something i can help with.
So far i have tried two things that work quite good.

1. priming with a rattle-can. Usually i prefer solvent free color - but in this case more solvent is better. First: it dries faster, second: the more solvent, the less water in the color.
This seals the paper without warping

2. now this is the large sledge hammer... soak everything in liquid superglue
After this, it hardly counts as „paper“ anymore. In terms of stability and durability, it is more like styrene.
... and it becomes sandable

[CIUTTSO]

Before start to buid my paper models i use to airbrush all the printed sheets with at least two coats of Vallejo Acrylic Satin Barnish specially designed for airbrushing.. The results it' a surface that allows more brush barnish coats and some wheathering with water based paints and pastels.

[jaffro]

I paint all my models so I can offer some tips and advice.

Firstly, your tests are probably warping because you're painting plain paper. Once a model is built, it has structure, this can help eliminate warping in most cases, depending on the surface area and thickness of paper/card.

As someone else mentioned, Super (CA) glue can strengthen parts, it's also very messy and can cause issues if you don't do it right. Another option would be to give your model a few light coats of a clear laquer/acrylic coat before painting, instead of hairspray, to seal it before applying a wetter paint. The problem with brush painting acrylics, as you mentioned, is that they need to be thinner to brush on evenly.

I paint my models mostly with water based acrylics. As mentioned, solvent based paints dry faster so would possibly be a better option but I'm yet to try it myself, although when I first started painting models I only used spray-can enamels, with great results.

I always start with a primer, using an airbrush, the trick with acrylics is to use light misting coats and let each coat dry before applying the next one. Once you have a decent primer coat, your model will stand up to the rest of the painting process a lot better. I even use water based washed when weathering once I've painted, but you need to be very careful because no matter how well you've painted, the wash can strip details and small parts like laser-cut rivets etc.

Long story short, if you're not willing or able to use an airbrush, I'd suggest trying the spray-can option first, for either a clear coat or primer, prior to brush painting, to seal the model. Light misting coats, the first few will soak right into the paper, maybe experiment first with some basic shapes like cubes or whatever, not just a plain sheet of paper but the thinner the better so you can see what you can and can't get away with.

These were all painted with acrylics, priming first. The last one, front end loader, was painted entirely with spray-cans.

[blackarrow]

Thanks for great advice there.

jaffro, which clear coat / primer would you recommend if I am going to paint model using acrylic paint (Revell Aqua Color) afterwards? Thanks.

[RogerYoung]

i am not jaffro... but from my experience, for priming all you need is something that prevents water to pass later.
Almost any (non solvent-free) rattle can color - or even varnish - does the job.
Color has the advantage that it saves you the first layer in painting - depending on your technique for the later paintjob.

Just don't rush it. Sufficient distance, short bursts of color, rather indirect "fogging" than direct hitting and spraying multiple times from different angles.




The example here was primed black, painted with acrylics and shows the difference after the first washes (above) and subsequent weathering with oils, but prior to pigments (below).

[blackarrow]

I also read somewhere that people apply wood varnish (using brush or roller) to the printed side of the paper, and then build a model. Since varnish is sometimes quite thick, I find applying it to the inbuilt sheets more reasonable.

[Kevin WS]

I always spray my models with varnish before building, no matter how thin the paper is.