#11
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Did you ever get one of those cheap chef knife sets with a sharpening steel?
Generally, our blades don't really get dull, but the edge becomes un-true. Sharpening steels re-align the edge without grinding it down. I do a lot of cutting, but using the steel, my blades last for months. The trick is to stop what you are doing immediately when the blade starts to drag and use the steel on the blade before proceeding. And you mentioned Olfa blades. I use an Olfa knife with the break-away blades. You want to get a couple blade angles most likely, the longer tapered blade and the blunter blades. The blunt one is great for most things, but the longer tapered blades are used for more detailed cutting
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A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
#12
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Dear SMP:
The low budget method. Find paint stir paddle. Glue 1000 grit sand paper or crocus cloth to one side and you can glue a piece of leather on the other with jewelers ruse on it put one can strop the blade on just the wood or put jewelers ruse on the wood.
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If man could be crossed with the cat it would improve man, but it would deteriorate the cat. - Mark Twain Notebook, 1894 |
#13
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Dang! I was just at Home Despot yesterday and could have snagged a paint stirrer. I have a couple with 80 grit strips glued on them for rough shaping of balsa. Maybe I can peel the 80 grit off and sand the stick smooth again and paste on some 1000 grit, I have some of that in my sandpaper stash. I will have to run by the local jeweler's and inquire about the ruse. I'll still have to pick up a leather belt at Walmart, I will get the shortest one they have and see if the checkout clerk raises an eyebrow :-)
sp |
#14
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Actually it is jewelers rouge instead of ruse.
Honing compound, buffing compound, polishing compound seem to be other names for the stuff. Then there is stropping compound which some places say is different than the others yet the same things show up when searching for any one of them. I have used the black and the green to maintain an edge on used hobby knife blades. Works good.
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#15
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i use swan morton scalpel blades 11p that have the back of the blade grond way to form the point. this can be rubbed on a fine dimoned lap to remove the blunt part of the blade with out haveing to tuch the blade sides
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#16
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I've been using Edjer products for sharpening no.11 blades.
The tool holds the blade at a fixed angle for consistency and the sharpening stones are interchangeable from Arkansas whetstones to Extra-Fine Diamond. Very affordable too. Check them out here: Edjer Company I've been using the same blade for probably a year now. Just never let the blade get too dull before sharpening again. |
#17
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Never letting the blade get too dull seems to be the key no matter the method of resharpening used
Thanks sp |
#18
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I have a lifetime supply of USA made Exacto #11 blades and I still keep sharpening the old blades. A habit from when I only had one knife and one blade. I sharpen them and then use an old piece of leather to finish the honing. I test them by seeing how well they shave the hair from my hand. If the skin is smooth, the blade is sharp enough.
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#19
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Blades
I do have a case with blades with a sharpening stone.
Never used the stone yet - Not sure how good the sharpening will go Will test it out one day not sure from where it was made, no indication on the box |
#20
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Here is the tool I use. Available in the "kitchen tools" department of any supermarket. It is intended for sharpening knives, it too works well for sharpening the X-Acto and other similar blades. The grindstone is shaped as "V" wheel, so a few back and forth movements of the blade in the "V" are enough to sharpen it.
(Sorry for the poor quality of the images)
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