problem with gluing

[Retired_for_now]

Originally Posted by wowhaza

almost always a fair amount of excess glue that I have to wipe off after I have glued the parts together.

Haza,
I think that is the source of the problem. Try even less glue just on the tip of the toothpick. Any glue (water based) that contacts the printed surface (water soluable) will make the color bleed - and wiping just makes it worse by spreading the discoloration. Several good suggestions above on sealing the surface will help, but the cut edges may still be a problem as they are not sealed.
If your glue dries clear you may have better luck just leaving the excess to dry in place (assuming it's not a blob).
Yogi

[Jim Nunn]

Hard to tell what the problems you are having with out seeing the paper you are using. Most of us a good quality 64-67 lb Cover stock available at any office supply store. Look for paper that has a high brightness rating I don’t use any thing with less than a US 96 rating.
Just about everyone on this forum has a favorite glue, but for a starting modeler just get a bottle of Aleene’s original tacky glue. You can find it most craft stores and Wal-Mart. It is not as thin as most white glues so smearing should be less of a problem. Then use as little as possible, try applying the glue with a tooth pick. In small amounts the glue will set in just a few seconds. Pre-form your parts so that they hold the shape you want with out the glue then glue the parts.

As of the smearing of the inks on your model this could be due to the ink not being completely dry or set. I have read some posts on the Polish and German forums where they take the printed pagers and lay them printed side down on two or 3 sheets of cover stock and Iron them at the highest setting on the iron. This appears to completely set the ink and works on both inkjet printed pages or a commercially printed kit. After you build a few models you may want to paint the non printed side of the paper with Butyrate dope this also seems to set the ink and firms up the paper. But I think I am one of the few that use dope to set the paper and I am sure that you will get good suggestions from the other members of the forum.

As you build more models you will find what techniques work best for you. Just remember it’s all about having fun building and not about techniques used to build. Just keep building and your skills will improve rapidly.

Jim Nunn

[bigbenn]

Hi,
I use PVA glue. I have done so for over 25 years of paper kit modelling. I apply just enough glue on one or both surfaces, wet as you would find on the back of a postage stamp, then join the two surfaces together. When dry (usually overnight) the join is like a welded joint.
When I want to stop myself from putting crap from my fingers on the model parts I have built, I brush on a coating of PVA glue and set the model, or parts aside to dry.
PVA dries clear and is just like varnish, however if I leave some glue from my fingertips, it is easy to remove it with a damp cloth, without damaging the, lets say deck of the model which I had previously covered with the PVA coating.
The really good thing about using PVA is that when dry, it still acts as a great joint, if you glue something else onto it, like superstructure for example, because you have pre primed the part with dries PVA glue - not some other medium, which might not absorb the PVA glue and allow a strong joint. I have found that if I try to PVA glue parts to a varnished deck, the parts just tear off easily - there is no "hold" there.
Currently building IJN Yamato @ 1/200 and Czar Nicholas's Lividia (Turbot Hull Royal Yacht @ about 1/50 scale) in card with PVA glue.
BigBenn

[FoamHeadMike]

Go to Wal Mart and buy a bottle of Beacons Fabri Tac found in the crafts section. it is clear, bonds on contact and is easily removed from your fingersand will not smudge ink.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by FoamHeadMike

Go to Wal Mart and buy a bottle of Beacons Fabri Tac found in the crafts section. it is clear, bonds on contact and is easily removed from your fingersand will not smudge ink.

I've seen the glue you're talking about, but never thought to try it!

Will get some the next trip to the store!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[altomentis]

I like Scotch Quick-Dry Tacky Adhesive. It has a great pointy nozzle and it won't wrinkle paper unless you use large amounts of it. It has two problems that I know of: no working time - you can't slide the parts into position; and sometimes if you aren't quick enough it's dry before you can put the parts together. It works well for models that have shiny surfaces too.

[martyp]

you would need to use solvent based adhesives.Look for a syrup-like clear liquid and use it sparingly,and for certain joints contact adhesive works well.

[John Wagenseil]

Consider an epson or other brand of printer that has water resistant inks. But spraying printed sheet with clear finish works too.

[Jim Nunn]

This is a technique that I have seen on a couple of Polish and German sites and is used even on commercial kits. They set (force dry) the ink by ironing the pages. Set the iron to linen and no steam (I drain the iron out). Place the page with the printed side down on three or four sheets of 67 lb card stock on a very flat surface and apply heat. This should be done a couple of times. This seems to force out the solvents in the ink and it appears to make the ink bond to the paper.

Once this is done I also use aero gloss dope mixed 2 or 3 to 1 with thinner to coat the paper. The thinned dope dries flat and does not affect the color, it also appears to bind the fibers in the paper so that you get nice sharp folds and the paper does not fray with handling during the build. The down side is that the dope should be used in a well ventilated area and is does stink.

Jim Nunn

[CharlieC]

I usually give the printed sheets a light spray with clear matt acrylic. It seems to set the ink and gives a waterproof surface so any glue disasters can just be wiped off.

My current spray can is Helmar acid-free Krystal Kote but I've used the equivalent Krylon product in the past.

Regards,

Charlie