problem with gluing

[Jonnio]

On a related note, I was wondering how everyone deals with the gluing of longer parts. After pre-shaping parts do you generally start with the center of the piece, one end and proceed across, glue the whole piece at once, or is it a matter of personal preference?

The reason I'm asking is that being very new to modelling in paper, (I've only built the free models from Fly'n Things and a few Japanese Coast Guard ships. and not all that well at that, But my nephew like playing with them) I decided that an interesting project would be Chamoo232's model of Zero, Jack Skellington's dog ( available here nightmare before chrismas - Chamoo232's Papercraft Archive )for the front porch as a decoration. Many of the parts for the model are long and irregular, making it difficult to pre-shape them. I just worked them right to left, shaping and gluing, because it seemed to be the easiest way for me to manipulate the parts.

Is there a consensus on the best way to work with parts like this?

Thanks,
Jon

[Jim Nunn]

Sorry guys I responded to this question twice... I would go take some of my Alzheimer's medication but I forgot where I put it!


Jim Nunn

[martyp]

I always started my adhesive at 1 end to align parts properly and since I use a solvent based adhesive there is a few seconds of open time before it sets.I also filed off the teeth from a pair of artery forceps to help with clamping and holding.The alternative method requires sparing use of water based contact cement and very steady hands ,no 2nd chance here.

Regards and good luck MartyP

[glounsbury]

Hi,

Agree with less glue is better and sealing after printing.

I prefer UHU for paper, less wrinkles good adhesion, less problems with ink running. Here is image of bottle. Put a bit of glue on a waste card and then with a toothpick or pin apply glue to area to be glued. Of course pre-shaping is also much better.

George

[Kevin WS]

A lot of responses are correct - the smudging is from the print media which has ben dissolved by the solvent in the glue.

A simple, extremely cheap white wood glue should however work. I use this all the time and have never had a problem - White Pratt Wood Glue if you are in Southern Africa. I do not know is it is available in your part of the word.

The basic white wood glue should not dissolve MODERN laser or inkjet inks.

[Mirco]

I use white glue almost exclusively and always glue even the longest tabs at one go. This is the trick (red = glue):



Continuous layer of white glue will either distort the paper or become dry before the tab is aligned and joined (or both). Solvent-based glues usually dry out even quicker.
Discrete droplets of wood glue, on the other hand, last longer, don't distort at all and when the parts are pressed together, they spread to wider and thinner layer, securing a strong joint and drying quickly.

Just my two cents...

[lancer525]

That is an awesome technique, Mirco!