#1
|
|||
|
|||
problem with gluing
my first papercraft model was complete earilier this week but the problem that I had was with my glue. Currently, I'm just using project glue that is a little thicker than regular elmer's white glue. I'm using some kind of drawing paper as well. (if this information would help the situation)
Every time I glue parts together, the ink smudges with the glue and changes the color which is very noticeable. Most of the seams of my model have these color changes and I was just wondering how I can help prevent this for my next projects. Would I need a different kind of paper or glue? maybe even a new printer? Thanks for any input. |
Google Adsense |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
less glue would be the first idea
also, if you could show us what is happening, we can help better
__________________
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
It is the original ink do you use? A friend of mine had this problem with cheap ink. Although I have these problems with ink not cheap but I already found the original ink is better-
Greetings Gerald
__________________
http://olliskartonmodelle.forumieren.com/ |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Hi Wowhaza,
To use less glue would be my first comment, but have you been pre-shaping the parts? By preshaping the parts, they stay together much easier than trying to "spring" apart. So, the glue "tacks" better. Also from your comments the paper might be too thin or lightweight for heavy glue. You might try thinning the glue with water if it is a PVA (white) glue. I use a small ink fill syringe to apply my glue. It leaves a small uniform line that is easy to control when applying the glue. Another method is to use a small paint brush or toothpick to apply the glue. Hope some of this helps! Best regards, Mike Bauer |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I use a cheap airbrush to spray a light coat of clear floor polish (brand name is Plege) to seal the paper after printing out but before building. There are several types of clear spray paint that can also be used. I find the floor polish helps bring out the colors and makes it easier to remove excess glue globs.
|
Google Adsense |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
@Knife
Would using a normal paint brush to apply clear floor polish work as well? Or a roller, maybe... I want to seal my models but the other suggestions I've seen around the site are too expensive for me to pursue. ontopic: I agree with everyone on using less glue and thicker paper, I tried to make my first model using regular printer paper and glue stick and boy, that was a plain nightmare.
__________________
If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams, and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined, one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
thanks for your suggestions. Right now I have just been gluing with a small amount of glue on a toothpick, although there is almost always a fair amount of excess glue that I have to wipe off after I have glued the parts together. I'll try the syringe technique, thanks again everyone for your ideas.
Haza |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Hi Kourin,
I used to use a cotton ball to apply future floor wax. Just pull/smash fibers so there is no loose ones to stick to model. Best regards, Mike bauer |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Hi wowhaza,
Water based glues will attack water based inks, causing them to bleed out and smear. The combination of paper/cardstock, ink, and glue affects exactly how pronounced the result will be. You have options: 1) After printing a sheet of parts, seal it with a clear coat. You can buy matt, semi-gloss, and gloss clear acrylic sealer in a spray can. I believe Krylon clear acrylic sealer sells for about $4 US at Walmart. Follow the directions on the can. Start your spray off the page, move across the page in a steady motion, then stop after you are off the page on the other side. Make as many passes as necessary to seal the sheet. A sealed sheet will resist a lot of water and makes excess glue removal much easier. 2) Many card modelers in North America swear by Aleenes Tacky Glue in the brown bottle. It is similar to Elmers Glue but with less water content, more working time, and better adhesion. You can buy a bottle at Walmart for about $1.50 US. Just about any store with a craft section will carry it. 3) Try printing on a more robust, matt cardstock. Ink tends to adhere less well to glossy paper and stock. Water from glue saturates thin paper and stock more quickly. 4) Try using a different printer. Not all printer inks are created equal. Maybe the ink from your printer is especially intolerant of water. Applying glue with a toothpick is standard operating procedure. If you are having to wipe off a lot, just use less in the first place. If the glue is drying too quickly, go get some Aleenes Tacky Glue. Let us know how it goes and good luck! -Doug |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
I use the bottles with a long, 2-3in small metal tube, that you use to refill the ink cartridges with. I can dab a small amount in hard to get places, apply a thin line and control the amount of ink better. I use white glue and sometimes thin it in the bottle.
__________________
Sit quietly, doing nothing, spring comes, and the grass grows by itself. http://www.usswhiteriver.com/ |
Google Adsense |
|
|