#11
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Windows originally. (Romulan War Bird)
Though, I inherited some larger diameter strands that might be good for spot projection, assuming that flaring technique works well enough. (Refit Enterprise and "A") |
#12
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Well the fiber optics arrived today - much to my dismay the lamps weren't LED and were nowhere near bright enough. Instead I picked up a cheap flashlight with 8 LEDs which should be plenty bright. I'm estimating I'll need around 100 distinct points of light, so I'm going to make 8 bundles of 12/13 FO cables and place them around a paper core so each bundle is right over and LED. Should mean maximum brightness.
I also played around with melting the ends too 'fray' them a bit. This broadens the distribution of light so it's more similar to the pattern you'd see from a full sized spotlight. Seems to work very nicely. Im also going to try to make a hinged or removable portion of the model secured by magnets to allow access to the lamp for battery changing and of course turning on. My last idea for now is a way to black out the internal lights: I intend to score the cardstock for folding, then glue to a piece of aluminum foil. Since it's opaque it should -in theory- prevent light from escaping. Also there is a bit of light spillage from the sides of the FOs so when they are against the paper they show through. I'll post some photos of my lighting concepts when I get the chance. Unfortunately I'm too busy even on the weekends to devote a day to this anymore.... |
#13
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You could also paint the FO strands black to prevent light from showing from the sides...
Glenn |
#14
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just came to think of it, might this work (at a large enough scaled model) as position lights/landing gear beams on an aircraft? for position lights either paint the ends or use colored LED's
__________________
"I wonder where Guenter Wendt" Just because you can - doesn't always mean you have to... I don't want the victory, just the struggle |
#15
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Good idea on painting the sides black - I'll have to check that out!
Also yeah 2Kamser, in theory you could bundle maybe 6 FOs together and they would be a pretty bright source of light for landing lights on an airplane. As a quick aside, I cam across an interesting video on YouTube explaining how to use Superglue (CA) and either baking soda or talc powder to create a rock hard filler/reinforcer. It's used typically on plastic but I think could be adapted for paper. The baking soda reaction produces lots or heat but the talc does not Mao theoretically you could preform a piece and then literally squeeze on a web of glue, throw on some talc, bush off and have a model significanly stronger than paper alone I'm going to have to experiment.... |
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#16
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Well, as a quick update:
It took far longer for me to assemble all the materials than I had originally expected, but I finally got most of the needed components. 1. I picked up 4 Inova microlights as the lighting source. They measured 1.85x.325 inches, thigh they can be clipped down to 1.5" lengths. I was attracted to Inova because they are extremely bright, and have multiple lighting settings. Unfortunately I failed to realize they have a 4 minute timer in their brightest setting - unacceptable for a model so I do NOT recommend using them. There are other mini lights though that can be used, for those of us lacking skills with electric circuit-making. 2. My idea to use cyanoacrylate/talc did not go according to plan. It took hours to set up and was not as sturdy as I'd hoped. I instead switched to CA/baking soda. Heat generation was less than I expected, and did not damage the paper. Also, the heat did not seem to damage to the FO cable itself, as I expected, so I think I have found a way to secure the lights permanently into place. Also, the CA/baking soda crystal-like structure glows brightly when you imbed the end of a FO into it. Therefore by accident I have come across a very cool extra lighting effect. 3. Working with foil laminated to the inside of the model has proven mostly successful on tests, but the trick is to ensure that every edge and seam is glued down. Otherwise light WILL escape through the tiniest crack. I am concerned about the longevity of this method of blacking out the model (ie, as time goes on edges will detach in areas that are inaccessible once the model is complete), but can't think of any other way. I can try to paint FOs w/ opaque paint but there is the problem of spillage from the light source. Ideas? Thanks everybody! |
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