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  #41  
Old 07-22-2013, 11:40 AM
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Excellent information!
Thanks for posting this thread.
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  #42  
Old 04-30-2015, 12:29 AM
tarunupadhyaya tarunupadhyaya is offline
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Thanks Gil for the amazing tutorial.

I need a little help here.
I am trying to cut circles of paper and then fold them to form triangles.

I am afraid if I make the stock first and then cut & fold, the bended edges may crack the foil.

Should I cut & fold first and then glue the foil?

Please help. Anyone?
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  #43  
Old 04-30-2015, 02:03 AM
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No Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by tarunupadhyaya View Post
Thanks Gil for the amazing tutorial.

I need a little help here.
I am trying to cut circles of paper and then fold them to form triangles.

I am afraid if I make the stock first and then cut & fold, the bended edges may crack the foil.

Should I cut & fold first and then glue the foil?

Please help. Anyone?
The aluminum clad card stock will bend with the fold lines without any problems. Insure that the glue has a little extra time to dry (through the paper side) to insure that the glue bond is firmly set before making the folds (~24 hours).

-Gil
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  #44  
Old 04-30-2015, 08:26 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Wow, didn't know this tutorial existed, always went to the Natural thread.

Great job Gil & Leif!

Thank you!

Mike
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  #45  
Old 04-30-2015, 09:45 AM
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It's a new one for me too. You guys do the best tutorials! Another question: Is adhesion to the shiny side an issue or is de-lamination required for tabs?
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  #46  
Old 04-30-2015, 10:45 AM
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ringmaster ringmaster is offline
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In my plastic days, I used the foil from Cadbury Chocolate Bars and a foil adhesive from Zap. It worked very much like the expensive adhesive foil but you could turn it over to get dull or polished surfaces.I also found candy bars with gold and bronze finishes.The candy wrappers were much thinner than Reynolds Wrap.
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  #47  
Old 04-30-2015, 02:19 PM
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I have some very shinny silver mylar which was the bag for some cookies I saves. I tried using it on small boxes but the glue I was using didn't hold. That being the case do you think Mylar would work? Or is back to plan 1 and try to find a place that sell 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of silver card stock. Thank you for your time. wc
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  #48  
Old 04-30-2015, 08:18 PM
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Answers...,

Quote:
Originally Posted by zot View Post
It's a new one for me too. You guys do the best tutorials! Another question: Is adhesion to the shiny side an issue or is de-lamination required for tabs?
Either side can be used depending upon what's desired for the model. I don't use tabs - connecting rings that are tabbed can easily be substituted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wad Cutter View Post
I have some very shinny silver mylar which was the bag for some cookies I saves. I tried using it on small boxes but the glue I was using didn't hold. That being the case do you think Mylar would work? Or is back to plan 1 and try to find a place that sell 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of silver card stock. Thank you for your time. wc
I tested many different aluminized mylar sheets. Mylar is another name for nylon and is very glue unfriendly - but it is really shiny and can be used to distract ADD type individuals. I don't collect it anymore.

-Gil

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  #49  
Old 05-01-2015, 09:09 AM
rgmarine rgmarine is offline
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Best tutorial ever!
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  #50  
Old 05-01-2015, 11:34 AM
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I was wondering about using this for large airships?

Would doing the same process, but using the duller side, accurately represent the doped fabrics of their hulls?

The DC
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