How to Make Aluminum Clad Card Stock

[Gil]

Originally Posted by THE DC

I was wondering about using this for large airships?

Would doing the same process, but using the duller side, accurately represent the doped fabrics of their hulls?

The DC

DC,

Dull side aluminum foil is synonymous with Zeppelin silver. Glad you made the stretch obvious. A little matte spray to match up the high aluminum powder content of the Zeppelin's doped surface would match in-scale perfectly.

Now who will take up the perfect LTA Zeppelin paper model build? How about the all metal ZMC2 or a "K" model USN blimp - both would be naturals for dull side aluminized paper. Floats the imagination with possibilities...,

-Gil

[SCEtoAUX]

So, when you use some silver or other colored stock for the body of a model do you print a set of markings on thin, plain white paper and then cut them out to stick on the model so that the graphics that are white actually look white on the model?

[Gil]

Originally Posted by SCEtoAUX

So, when you use some silver or other colored stock for the body of a model do you print a set of markings on thin, plain white paper and then cut them out to stick on the model so that the graphics that are white actually look white on the model?

The following are photo excerpts from work in developing aluminum on paper:

Inkjet Receptor Coating Development:





Film Decal Transfer Development:



-Gil

[mbauer]

Hi Gil,

What ink receptor did you use?

Looks perfect for the cones and the decal too!

Mike

[Gil]

Hi Mike,

This may cause some concern as it does not tell you exactly how to make a coating - suffice to say, it contains enough information for those who might be interested in doing it themselves. This should only be undertaken by those who are fully cognizant of the dangers that are involved - especially the process of heating 90% propyl alcohol to dissolve polyvinyl-alcohol crystals:

http://www.tappi.org/downloads/confe...m/08pm138.aspx

The resulting printed surface needs to be sealed with a clear coat.

I urge anyone interested in inkjet printing technology to read the paper. It illuminates the physical aspects of placing color on paper and other articles if you are so inclined.


-Gil

[mbauer]

Hi Gil,

Just glanced through the paper. Looks like it has some interesting test results, good info on transfer of ink to paper. Interesting to note that there are machines designed to measure how the ink actually works on different paper.

I'll read through it at a latter date, busy at present creating some drawings for a customer. Take a break here and there to relax a little.

Bought a quart jar of InkAid. It arrived last Monday. After looking through the link, I better go check-out the MSDS.

Thank you for the link!

Mike

[Gil]

Mike,

I've tried InkAid and it works.

One of the problems I ran into was the change in perception InkAid produced when applied to aluminum - it dulled out the aluminum sheen to the point of disappointment. The Indian-head was printed on a single layer of plastic kitchen film that had been painted white prior to coating with the home made receptor solution followed by printing.

That's when I decided to use a very minimal approach to maximizing ink absorption on a layer close to the reflective plane of the aluminum. It turns out it was the right choice...,

-Gil

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by Gil

Mike,

I've tried InkAid and it works.

One of the problems I ran into was the change in perception InkAid produced when applied to aluminum - it dulled out the aluminum sheen to the point of disappointment. The Indian-head was printed on a single layer of plastic kitchen film that had been painted white prior to coating with the home made receptor solution followed by printing.

That's when I decided to use a very minimal approach to maximizing ink absorption on a layer close to the reflective plane of the aluminum. It turns out it was the right choice...,

-Gil

Can understand the minimal approach!

Do you know which InkAid you tried?

Bought the Clear Gloss II. Also have a roll of silver mirror wall paper (looks like chrome or shiny aluminum). Planning to use the InkAid on it.

Mike

[Gil]

Mike,

I don't remember which one I purchased though I think it was the gloss. They've evidently changed the formulation since then.

You'll find that working with reflective surfaces more difficult than you may at first think. Chrome will look like chrome - with a clear coat layer, aluminum will dull out depending on the amount and type of spray used (or why I learned to love nitrate dope).

I recommend testing and perfecting your workflow prior to diving in to a model build. In CGI it's called "getting the look" right. I'm still on break from being able to do the "flush rivet" look along with being able to perform compound curve deformation using tooling foil. The old adage, "Life's a bitch and then you die" does come to mind...,

-Gil

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by Gil

Mike,

I don't remember which one I purchased though I think it was the gloss. They've evidently changed the formulation since then.

You'll find that working with reflective surfaces more difficult than you may at first think. Chrome will look like chrome - with a clear coat layer, aluminum will dull out depending on the amount and type of spray used (or why I learned to love nitrate dope).

I recommend testing and perfecting your workflow prior to diving in to a model build. In CGI it's called "getting the look" right. I'm still on break from being able to do the "flush rivet" look along with being able to perform compound curve deformation using tooling foil. The old adage, "Life's a bitch and then you die" does come to mind...,

-Gil

Ah! The old flush rivet look until the curve changes it; look?

My brain would be hurting big-time trying to figure that one out!

I have faith in you, looking forward to seeing how it is done!

Mike