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  #21  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bagpiper View Post
Will you be showing us the basics on how to apply the paint together with a before and after image. That would really complete the picture on colour mixing and application.
Feel free to ask away, that way I can get some kind of idea as to what your interested in as far as color mixing goes.

Do you want a before picture of a finished piece of a model and then an after retouch picture to show what the finished piece looks like with retouching?

Or are you asking for a picture of what a blank color mixing card looks like and what I do to make the color card?

Maybe both? Let me know.

SFX
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  #22  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:33 PM
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BOTH! But especially before and after touch ups
Chris
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  #23  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:33 AM
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BOTH! But especially before and after touch ups
Chris
I agree with Chris and both would be wonderful as long as it does not eat up your time mate.

Cheers

Jim
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  #24  
Old 05-14-2010, 07:23 AM
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Anything you can do will be greatly appreciated. I'm such a putz when it comes to color, there's no way except up for me.

Garland
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  #25  
Old 05-14-2010, 03:01 PM
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I'm going to continue on with some more basic preparation.

With my comments in an earlier post about making a decision about which medium you might choose I found some additional information and links about the mediums that might be useful.

These are "traditional" definitions.

Watercolor:
Artist Quality Lightfast Paints - 37ml Watercolors

Present-day watercolor, is often called transparent watercolor. An important principle of transparent watercolor is never to work with white paint, which destroys the transparency, the look of the medium. Even after it is dry, it could be re-wet and removed, but is not recommended.

In our case, we do what we have to do to get what we want. If we have to add white, so be it.

Acrylics:
http://www.schoolofcolor.com/acatalo...LICS_37ml.html

Acrylic paint is fast-drying it can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Depending on how much the paint is diluted (with water) or modified with acrylic gels, media, or pastes, the finished acrylic painting can resemble a watercolor or an oil painting, or have its own unique characteristics not attainable with other media. Once dried, there is no easy going back. The only way to "fix" a problem is to remix and cover over the old paint.
For our use, it will for the most part be very thin and will sometimes be so thin that it will look like a watercolor wash.

Gouache:
http://www.schoolofcolor.com/acatalog/GOUCHE_37ml.html

Gouache (pronounced gawash) is an opaque watercolor. The paint is applied without much water, and you have to mix a color with white if you want to make it lighter. White is used in gouache as in oils. Like transparent watercolors, it can be re-wet and re-worked to the point of complete removal. I don't recommend this as it will usually damage the paper surface.

Miniaturists often work with gouache, and as I mentioned earlier is what I like to use for card models.

I hope this is not too much information for what your looking for, I just think it's important to have some basic knowledge of what the advantages and disadvantages of these mediums is.

I'm almost done with all this prep. stuff and we'll get down to mixing very soon.

Last edited by Swampfox; 05-14-2010 at 03:20 PM.
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  #26  
Old 05-14-2010, 03:32 PM
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its perfect as a matter of fact - not too much at all!
Thanks
Chris
p.s. hitting the art store this weekend
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  #27  
Old 05-14-2010, 03:58 PM
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its perfect as a matter of fact - not too much at all!
Thanks
Chris
p.s. hitting the art store this weekend
Am I allowed to agree with Chris twice in the same thread :D
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  #28  
Old 05-14-2010, 04:09 PM
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You better not - you may set a precedence heh heh
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  #29  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:08 PM
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p.s. hitting the art store this weekend
Chris and anyone else that plans on going shopping for Paint...
for now if you do buy anything... consider these colors in whatever medium you decide to work with.

Cadmium Red Light----Orange-Red, Opaque
Quinacridone Violet----Violet-Red, Transparent
Cadmium Yellow Light----Orange-Yellow, Opaque
Hansa Yellow Light----Green-Yellow, Semi-Transparent
Cerulean Blue----Green-Blue, Opaque
Ultramarine Blue----Violet-Blue, Transparent
Phthalocyanine Blue----Green-Blue, Transparent
Phthalocyanine Green----Mid-Green, Transparent
Burnt Sienna----Neutralized Orange, Transparent
Yellow Ochre----Neutralized Orange-Yellow, Semi-Opaque
Raw Sienna----Neutralized Orange-Yellow, Semi-Transparent
Titanium White----White, Opaque

The first part is the actual color ie. Cadmium Red Light not Cadmium Red medium or anything else. If you can't find the exact name, please wait to buy.

The rest of the text next to the color..... don't worry about right now..

I'm writing explanations for all this gibberish this weekend.

Have fun.

SFX
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  #30  
Old 05-14-2010, 06:56 PM
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printed for reference when I go
Thanks!
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