New Member With Questions

[Mopar Madness]

Hello friends. I have decided to try my hand at paper models. I have a pretty firm grasp on plastic kits so I thought I’d try a new medium. I've dabbled with a few patterns printed on basic copy paper and want to try some thing a little more advanced. My question is regarding the attached image. The translation from Polish to English is "Stick it on 0.5 mm cardboard." Does this mean I cut out the part from the instructions, trace it on 0.5 mm card stock, then cut it out of the 0.5 mm card stock? Do you use double-sided tape to stick the pattern to the card stock? How do I transpose the fold lines too so I know exactly where to score and fold the 0.5 mm card stock after I cut it out? Thank you in advance for your help!!

[rickstef]

In most kits that use a skeleton, or formers as they are called, usually one glues the thin sheet(your second image) to the .5 mm cardboard and then cut out the whole part

those "fold lines" you see on the parts in the second image, those are where adjoining parts get glued to, no scoring needed or required.

[Mopar Madness]

Thank you Rick. I really appreciate the help!

[Burning Beard]

Just jumping in here, cereal boxes are a great source of 0.5mm cardboard and are fairly easy to cut. If you have illustrated instructions, look them over carefully, it is easy to miss something. Try not to make construction harder than it is (I do this all the time). And of course, it you are working from a printed kit, scan everything (if you have the ability) so you can re-print parts if things go south on you.

[Mopar Madness]

Thank you BB. I like the cereal box idea!

[Amccombs3]

For the 1 mm board, you can ask your local comic book shop to save you the cardboard that is used as spacers in the packages when the comic books are shipped. This board is waste for the shop, and it is thicker than the backing board that they sell for collectors to put in the sleeves with individual issues. In one week, my shop gave me a lifetime supply (I was a regular customer and they knew me, that may have helped).

For “B”, or Bristol, you can use 67 pound cover stock or cardstock from your local office supplies store. If all else fails, you can laminate the 67 pound cover stock to the thickness you need, figuring it at 1 sheet = 0.25mm.

I needed some 2mm board for one of my kits, and found it at a bemused bookbinder’s shop. They weren’t used to selling the stuff in single sheets, but were happy enough to take my offer of a few dollars.

Hold the cardboard up against a slot or those double-dash lines to check the thickness if you’re not sure.

Spray adhesive is good for adhering parts to the reinforcing card.

Just curious, which kit are you building?

[Michael Bunny Exclusive D]

Hi New Member Mopar Madness if you have cardstock you should get 100 lb thick cardboard as well! I hope this helps you out!


cardstock - Google Search


I have it and it works with paper models as well! and welcome to the forum!

and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year as well Michael!

[mbauer]

Additional hint: If you rough cut the part out, use a spray adhesive to laminate it to the .5mm card, you only have to cut the part outline out once.

The best spray glue for laminating is 3M Super 77.

Paper models require a different skill set than working with plastic.

You have to form the parts to connect them. There are many ways to do this, technique is a valuable skill that will help once you find what works for you.

Taking a flat piece of paper and turning it into a 3D sculpture is a very interesting hobby!

Mike

[Mopar Madness]

“Just curious, which kit are you building?”

It’s the Answer ModelArt Su-122. Not too many complicated curves or bulbous areas. So I thought a simple geometric design would be a good one to start with.

[Mopar Madness]

Thank you everyone for all the wonderful tips!