#21
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Zathros, after looking at the limited space for the set to fit into, I decided just to take the refund and try again for a somewhat smaller (and lots cheaper) set. This time I'm going to insist that WalMart open the containers and inspect for visible damage prior to leaving the store with it. After my experience with ship-to-store, I'm beginning to wonder if this is a new version of "bait-and-switch."
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It's not good to have too much order. Without some chaos, there is no room for new things to grow. |
#22
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Quote:
You car is coming out awesome buy the way. I thought this was an update! |
#23
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The build still hasn't become a high-tech spitwad, but only because my personality is the "don't tell me I can't do it" type. The first pic shows some of the bumps in the road to where it is now. One of the first things discovered is that the body piece seems to be that for the touring version of the car. The tabs in front of the rear axle don't appear to be used, so I just whacked them off. The white stripes on the outside edge of the forward half of the body appear to be location marks for gluing on full fenders and running boards. I photoshopped them out. Which led to the next fluxup I made. I printed out the parts used for the build directly from the pdf file. To modify the body part, I imported the appropriate page into photoshop and saved/printed as a jpg. Surprise, surprise....the jpg is about 4 percent larger than the printed-from-pdf parts. Of course, I didn't check for this until ready to mate the body to the frame....so, back to photoshop to get everything flying in formation.
The sequence I finally had some success with for the body was to assemble the compound-curved turtledeck (being liberal with painting with superglue to stiffen it and hold it's shape), then attach the body to the turtledeck, starting at the forward edge of the turtledeck and working to the rear of the body. I then attached the rear portion of the body bottom, starting at the rear of the body and working forward. The roughly triangular inner panels for the rear of the body give you the guidance needed for folding and placing the rear bottom piece. I then attached the piece that forms the front of the turtledeck, which reminded me of the old simile involving unnatural acts performed on wildcats using a wet noodle. Location marks showing the centerlines of the parts would have been very useful...When completed, it became apparent that my assembly was a bit off. Well, I said this wasn't going to be particularly pretty. Next step was to glue on the dash board, the inner portion of the firewall/floorboard, and finally the outer portion of the firewall/floorboard. I then attached the gas/brake/clutch pedal cluster to the inside of the body tub, then attached the seat. When the assembly was dry, I then attached the little "fin" pieces to the body that go up over the top of the rear axle. Finally, I attached the body to the frame. I stupidly assumed the step in the body (where the little slot occurs to allow the frame to penetrate through the body) should align with the end of the white location marker on the outside of the frame rails. WRONG. Doing that placed the body about 3/32 inch too far forward on the frame....to get the frame to fit, I had to rip off the radiator assembly, and relocate it forward in order to get the hood to fit on. And, for sequence of assembly, insert the end of the hood center-hinge wire into the top of the firewall, then slip the radiator assy onto the other end of the wire, and finally glue in the radiator. If the bottom edge of the hood doesn't perfectly align with the tops of the frame rails, don't worry about it...base on the model A one of my buds had back in high school. that is prototypic for clamshell type hoods. At speed, the driver of such a vehicle is left wondering if just three hold-down pins are enough to keep hood attached to car. That's all for now...as advertised, it ain't pretty, but hopefully I'm locating the rocks for the rest of you (both of you) to skip across when you try the build.
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It's not good to have too much order. Without some chaos, there is no room for new things to grow. |
#24
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Wow, sounds like one might want to just build the body, then channel it and mount it to the frame. Welding is right out because it is paper, but I probably would have tried it, based on what you went through.
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#25
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"...hopefully I'm locating the rocks for the rest of you (both of you) to skip across when you try the build."
As if we would try it after seeing what you're going through! Seeing the size of this model against your keyboard makes me appreciate those hinges even more. Here's hoping you're through the worst of it and the rest is pure enjoyment. Chris |
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#26
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I finally figured out how the front fender attaches...though the nuke law of averages struck again. Initially, I thought the fender I was working with was the left front fender. After initial attachment to the car, something didn't look quite right as to how it aligned with the front axle. I pried it off and glued onto the right side of the car...looks much, much better. However, it now means the attachment location mark on the fender points away from the frame, not toward it....and I'm not going to undo what has been done yet again. I think I will print the outer face of the fender attachment on bond paper and paste it over the location mark to hide yet another mistook.
And, at this point, I'm tempted to do like my partial differential equations instructor used to do in the middle of an example (usually when he became so lost in his solution that he couldn't figure out how to go from there), and just say "now, it is intuitively obvious that the answer is....." and post a few pics of the completed model. Feedback has been limited to just a couple of our thousands of forum members, so I find myself questioning whether what I've been doing with this build thread is worth the bandwidth it is taking up.
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It's not good to have too much order. Without some chaos, there is no room for new things to grow. |
#27
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That's a hard one, but the model is looking pretty good. Just go with the easiest route and bang it out. The model really looks nice. It probably really needs to be gone through with some modern software to make things line up, but it has a nice feel to it, and you did such a great job on the rear end of the car and the engine cover.
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#28
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I say push on and keep posting updates rather than just the completed model pictures!
Your build is fantastic and the engineering you've put into work is very much worth the effort and heck, looks great! There are what seems to be a lot of compound curves running across this automobile, and it seems you have definitely mastered and tamed them. I'm not sure what my favorite part of this build is; perhaps the engine, or the hinges, or maybe... oh what the heck, I love it all! Please keep posting updates! |
#29
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Dawin - Don't give up. I have been following this thread but did not feel the need to comment as others had expressed the same views as mine. Having attemped some of Zio's aircraft in the past with most of them consigned to the bin I sympathise with your valiant work thus far. In fact as soon as I can put my intensive search for a new job behind me I will be using your work to aid me through a build of this model.
Keep going chum. |
#30
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Darwin
Please continue. Don't take the lack of responses as a reason to stop. I've been relatively silent on this forum of late, but would like to see the final result. I myself tend to move on to the next build without having finished the previous, but I've got two (non-Zio) car builds that I'm determined to finish. One may be a build thread so that I can totally humiliate myself ;>) |
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