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  #21  
Old 12-14-2014, 09:58 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Legs secure into the upper base part with the end tabs.
Just cut and spread the tabs out...smear a ton of glue,
and wait to dry.




...

While waiting, I cut out the lower breast(?) part 15...
it needs to be curved in two directions to fit to the body.




...

This is where I started to see the problems with overlapping and lining up those shaded areas.

Sometimes parts have to match up to two or three other parts, and getting all the
overlaps correct relies on perfect placement of all previous layers.

The top and bottom of Part 15 would not cover perfectly
and once the glue started to grab, I was commited to a not so perfect placement!

The saving grace is the perfect colouring...Johan's artwork is really well done, but even
the blank areas are perfectly coloured and almost invisible.

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  #22  
Old 12-14-2014, 10:04 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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So next comes the head/upper torso...

one big part (#16),
that is cut out (including many inner cut lines)
rolled into a cylindrical shape
and glued.

The are a bunch of triangular tabs for the former insert (Part 17)
which is also the backer for the owl's face.






...

After part 16 is formed and glued, you have to start overlapping and gluing down the feathers.
If you are edge colouring (which is advised) this step is a tedious one
with so many inner cuts and feather flaps!

Once again, keeping all the overlaps on their shaded marks proves to be difficult
but because of the dark colouring, any mistakes are well hidden.




...

After I was done with Part 16, I went inside and added a bunch of fillers.
I noticed a few light gaps...a few spaces between some of the feathers.
So I glued in a bunch of diamond cutouts which also strengthened the whole shape a bit more.


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  #23  
Old 12-14-2014, 02:14 PM
WVA WVA is offline
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I love it when a professional is challenged by a model! However, you seem to be handling this challenge quite well! "winging it" seems quite appropriate.

I have a funny story (to me, anyway). A few years ago I built this bird while staying in Florida in our motorhome. A fellow nearby had a sorry fake owl in his window, and when I finished mine, I put it on the dash. One day another camper said to me "John over there has a fake owl in his window, but yours is real, isn't it?"

Here is a tip. When you finish it, paint the eyes, beak and "toenails" (whatever they're called) with clear nailpolish, or the like. Gives a very realistic appearance.

Jim
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2014, 06:15 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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You built this model?...and you haven't been helping me?
sheesh

lol
This model is a gift for my mum...I like the clear nail polish idea
but I don't want to mess anything up.
I don't have enough time to build another one now.
In fact, if I mess it up, I'll be expecting a replacement owl in the mail?!
Right Jim?!

...

okay, lets continue...


This "former" part for the Head had me stumped.
Once again, a more detailed instruction diagram might have helped.
It has multiple creases and needs some creative folding that isn't obvious at first.






...

The part (17) doesn't actually fit the head (part 16).
There are three arrows that line up, and the lower area fits the head okay
but the top does not connect, leaving a gap.

I think the main purpose of this part (other than shaping the head/face area)
is to provide a backer stopping you from pushing the the face/beak into the head.

Anyway, once you get all the big tabs glued down, this is what you got.

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  #25  
Old 12-15-2014, 06:27 PM
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So, the face part is pretty easy to understand, even though it has a lot
of angles, cuts, folds and curves.

Following the sequence shown in the assembly diagram works.

The outside edges are slitted and then curved.
A couple of overlapping joints in the nose area as you fold the face in the middle.
Two cuts, below the eyes, and another overlapping join creating more curve to the face.




...
After you get the face formed, you have to push out the eyes.
Turn the part over, and push on the eye balls.
They press out surprisingly easy.
I used a rounded end burnishing tool, but you could even use your fingers.

Shape the eyes as round as possible...




...

And, this is what you end up with.
Its a very realistic look.

Last thing to do now, is to join the remaining center seam...
this is the trickiest part, because there is now some tension built up
from the nose seam and its connections.
The face wants to fold up and you have to hold it flat until the glue sets.
I also used some tweezers overnight to make sure it stayed in shape.



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  #26  
Old 12-15-2014, 06:27 PM
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peter taft peter taft is offline
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Thumbs up

Wahoooo coming along nicely dude
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  #27  
Old 12-15-2014, 06:49 PM
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Now the beak...

two parts...the beak itself, and a mounting thingy.

The beak has a couple of folds, and a curvy section and a couple of tabs
...and then the tip of the beak, with its tabbed connecting strip down the center.

Takes a bit of patience to get it all assembled, but its no too hard.






...

And, then you attach the Beak to the mounting thingy backer.

You have to shape it as you glue it into place.
I found it didn't want to curve quite the same and took a little persuading,
but eventually the glue grabs, and the beak stays in a nicely domed shape.





...
I let the beak set up overnight, along with the face...

then I glued the beak into the face, from the rear.
[Apparently I forgot to take a photo of this step]

I wasn't completely sure how to position the beak
...it can be moved a little up or down,
and it can be angled up or down a little bit.
So, I referred to the cover photo for what I thought was the best positioning.

...

The next pic shows the beak in place, and I have begun attaching the face to the head.

I started by gluing the bottom tabs in place first.
And I worked my way around, up both sides together, ending at the top.
There is a location pattern, showing you exactly where the overlapping feathers will go.

My suggestion is dry fit the face onto the head...get a feel of where it sits.
And then start gluing.

It seemed to fit well and I managed to cover most of the location marks.

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  #28  
Old 12-16-2014, 12:50 AM
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Tapcho Tapcho is offline
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Dave, just saw this thread. Fine build and I'm sure your Mom will appreciate it.

Tappi
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  #29  
Old 12-16-2014, 06:15 AM
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Erik Zwaan Erik Zwaan is offline
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Hi Dave,

I'm sorry I have missed your thread of the barn owl. I've built this model some 15 years ago and it still survives. I think you did a very good job, despite the sometimes not very clear instruction drawings. I remember that all parts fitted without a flaw. If still possible, to strengthen the structure of the legs and paws, try to slide in big diameter size plastic straws and line the inside base parts of the model with thin cardboard. This will definitely help to enhance the model's life time when on display.

You did not choose the easiest Johan Scherft models to start with!! Try the sparrows (male and female in one kit) to get acquainted with his type of models, or the free king fisher (to be downloaded from his site). Another nice one when more experienced is the jay bird.

The paper is indeed very thin. I remember gluing "inner lining" by using parts of scrap paper as much as possible, especially at the overlapping feathers. First of all to get a good gluing grip (enough surface to hold on to) and secondly to provide stiffness to the paper. By using white paper glue (water based), any edge can be smoothed perfectly by gently pressing or rubbing. You won't see the joint anymore in this way, it just "dissolves" in the background of the colored print of the feathers.

Although Malcolm Topp's birds are flying, he seem to have paid less attention to their landing gear. That's what I like about Johan's birds, a pity the wings are folded but the claws are certainly eye catchers of his models and the inner construction is simple but in fact very ingenious.

But to put it shortly: Well done on this one!


Best regards,
Erik
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  #30  
Old 12-16-2014, 08:26 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Thanks Tappi.
Thanks Erik.
This will be my fourth(?) Scherft model. So I understand his style and design method.
However, this model is different in scale and the fact that it has supporting structure.

It is also the only one without a Youtube video!

I am also currently building Malcolm Topp's Birdmobile Robin.
Thats a completely different adventure.

...

As far as the head is concerned, from this point on I didn't take any photos.
I guess I was moving too quickly to stop.

But I have taken some photos after the fact to illustrate...

As I said before, I attached the "face" starting at the bottom.
Just glue a few feathers onto the solid colour location marks.



...

And then follow around, working my way to the top center.

Tricky part is keeping the face stretched.
As you can see the feathers didn't quite align with the marked locations.
But luckily the colour blends in quite well, and you have to look very closely
to see these spots.




...

Last thing to do is the top, and this is a bit odd I think.
You have to preshape the front part of the head, to curve and droop downwards.
The face fits over it, but a triangular gap is left in the middle, which does not
completely cover the head part.
The leading edge of the underlying part is coloured dark to help hide it.

Is something supposed to go here?
It doesn't look like it from the cover photo.




...

As you can tell from these photos, I have also attached the entire head assembly to the body.

Once again, there are solid colour location patterns for you to align the parts.
The head fits on only one way (which was a little disappointing) by matching up the
feather pattern.
Since the edges of all the feathers are shaped and cut out, it can be a little tricky
fitting the head over the body...especially when everything is covered with glue.

I fitted the head a few times (dry) and then applied glue to the edges for a final fitting.
The sticky glue doesn't allow me to slide the head on as easily, and I had difficulty
aligning it for the final time.

I got one side perfect but couldn't quite slide the other side down far enough
(before the glue had started to grab).

I recommend using a much slower drying glue for this step...maybe less of it.



...

Another issue is the feathers at the back of the head (left side of body)
where they fit to the body...

They tend to stick out a bit, somewhat natural i think.
But the underlying solid colour patches are visible.

So I debated whether to glue the feathers down, and then I did.
But this causes a fold...a hump where the feathers fold over the edge of the body.
Very unnatural I think.







...

In the end, this is what you get.
I can't change it now, its all glued in place.

I reitterate, Johan's artwork is rich and detailed enough to help hide many fit issues.

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