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  #21  
Old 10-11-2018, 11:31 AM
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Next the wings.

Picture 1 – The two wings cut out before assembly.

Picture 2 – The wings are then made up by glueing the tabs. I started with the long tab, and then followed up with each of the smaller tabs, letting each one dry before I did the next.

Before fixing the wings to the body they must be further curved into shape, so they fit around the circular body. Keep dry fitting them to the body and keep shaping them until the fit is good.

Picture 3 – The parts now shaped and ready to be attached.

Dry fitting showed that some of the insides of the wings may just be visible in place. Like the tail already made, I painted them therefore with some watercolour. The inside of the wings will not really be visible, so leave out this step if you want.

Picture 4 – The wings after painting.

Picture 5 – The wings ready to be attached.

The wings are glued on by placing glue INSIDE the body and then carefully sliding each wing in from the back. Adjust and check the positioning, using the colouring on the outside of the wings and body as a reference, and then use to your fingers to hold in the wing in place to start the drying process.

Picture 6 - Repeat with other wing and you now have a headless bird! Check alignment again of both the wings.

And no guesses as to what will be next – the head and neck!
Attached Thumbnails
Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w1.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w2.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w3.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w4.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w5.jpg  

Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-w6.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 10-11-2018, 04:50 PM
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Vinalssergio155 Vinalssergio155 is offline
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Beautiful work, it looks great.
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  #23  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:27 AM
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Vinalssergio155 - thank you!

Hopefully the thread will also encourage a couple of people who haven't built birds to do so!
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2018, 04:27 AM
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Now to build the neck – probably the two quickest and easiest parts.

Picture 1 – The parts cut out. Both are made into “rings”.

Picture 2 – Both parts made up. Again these need to be pre-shaped before glueing.

Picture 3 – I glued the two parts together, and then attached them to the body.

Simple, straightforward, quick!

I also filled the body some more with toilet paper - just to prevent accidental "squashes" when I am handling it. Last chance before the head goes on!

Next part will be the head itself.
Attached Thumbnails
Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-n1.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-n2.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-n3.jpg  
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  #25  
Old 10-12-2018, 10:39 AM
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The Head

Moving onto another of the interesting parts now! The head.

This made up of 5 parts.

Picture 1 – This shows the main part of the head and the crest.

This part now needs to be carefully folded – as there are both “valley” and “mountain” folds involved, refer to the kit instructions, which clearly show how to go about the folding.

Once folded, the construction of this part is clear – start by glueing the base, glueing the tabs one by one. When this is done then glue the crest together.

Picture 2 – Once glued the part should then look like this. Anticlockwise from the crest just made, are the front of the face and eyes, a small piece (Part 12) that covers the area at the lower front of the crest (just above the beak), an insert for the inside of the beak, and lastly the outside of the beak.

The beak insert (Part 11) then needs to be glued onto some thick card. I used some cardboard from a cornflake box, laminating two pieces together as are cardboard here is a little flimsy nowadays.

Picture 3 - When dry, cut the beak insert out and then glue it to the base of the crest. Be careful that it is both centred and aligned, and then leave it to dry thoroughly. I then reinforced it with some extra glue and let it dry again.

Picture 4 - Part 12 is then glued in place at the front of crest above the beak insert. This is the finished result.

Picture 5 – The step is to attach the face and eyepiece.

Look carefully at the instructions which clearly show how it attaches. Pre-shape the front curve of the part so it fits nicely around the front of the head (under the beak insert). Note that at the very back there are two tabs – these when glued together these will ensure that the part is nicely aligned.

While this part dried, I then moved on to the beak.

Follow the instructions very carefully here as they show exactly how the beak should be constructed. It is important that this part is correct as much of the appearance of the finished bird depends on it.

I first scored all the tabs along the edge right back – and then started shaping the beak using a thin piece of dowel. The tabs are then folded in and glued to each other inside the beak.

Picture 6 shows the beak in the process of being made up. Notice the slits. DO NOT glue these – the beak needs to flex so it will fit nicely onto the beak insert.

Picture 7 shows the finished item after it had been further rolled and eased into shape. It should still be flexible in the vertical plane after it is dry (thanks to the slits).

I next dry fitted it carefully a few times until I was happy. I found that for me to get an easier fit, it was also better to now cut away most of the tabs inside the beak.

Picture 8 – The head from the bottom. Once the beak was dry I then also gently rolled it in places between my fingers to smooth out the uneven areas.

Picture 9 – The finished head. White edges on the crest and beak will be touched with watercolours when the bird is finished.

Next I have to build the base, as the feet are built directly onto this.
Attached Thumbnails
Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h1.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h2.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h33.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h4.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h5.jpg  

Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h6.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h7.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h8.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-h9.jpg  
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  #26  
Old 10-13-2018, 05:20 AM
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The base is next.

Consisting only of a single part this is straightforward.

Picture 1 – The part ready to fold. The hole in the bottom helps to access the tabs inside when glueing them.

Picture 2 – Folded up.

Picture 3 - This shows the base under construction. I decided I wanted to strengthen the base and so added a single layer of cardboard, again from an old cornflake box.

When reinforcing the box, I built it to the stage shown in the picture, and only then reinforced it with cardboard. I quite simply measured and cut each section out one by one, and then stuck each one in individually, trimming as required.

This sounds complicated, but it is far easier then sticking the original part on one piece of cardboard! The reason for this is that the laminated cardboard would not fold correctly due to the thickness, and the edges would split.

Making and gluing the individual pieces in place probably only took less than 5 minutes.

Pictures 4 and 5 – The finished item.

Close to complete!
Attached Thumbnails
Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-b1.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-b2.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-b3.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-b4.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-b5.jpg  

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  #27  
Old 10-13-2018, 05:52 AM
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Vinalssergio155 Vinalssergio155 is offline
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Great base. In the WoT models that I build, I do the same, reinforcement as I'm closing. Your bird looks great.
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2018, 01:52 PM
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Vinalssergio155 - interested to see you use the same method for your WOPT bases. Yes, it does work well.

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  #29  
Old 10-14-2018, 12:08 PM
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Now to mount the bird on the base and make the claws.

Picture 1
– The finished body, with the neck attached and awaiting the head.

Picture 2 – I next attached the head. Easier at this stage as without the base the body is easier to manipulate.

I had to fiddle a bit to get the head on – the neck needed shaping to match the “teardrop” cross section of the head (see Picture 8 in the post on making the head). I also found it a little tight, so rather then force anything I cut 6 small slits in the neck to give it a little inward compression. The slits are not visible on the finished model as they are largely hidden inside after the head goes on.

Picture 3 – The bird was next mounted on the base. The position is exactly on the marks indicated on the base for the feet. The tail should just clear the ground – see Picture 3 again.

I used white PVA glue (my normal glue for paper models) and held the part together for a couple of minutes. I then put a couple of pieces of folded scrap paper under the tail to support the bird while the legs dried to the base. This was then left overnight and reinforced with some more PVA glue first thing in the morning.

Next step was to get the claws made.

Picture 4 – This shows the 4 parts cut out. They should be preshaped as shown – I used a part of a skewer to help me do this.

Picture 5 - I then painted the insides with watercolour where I thought they may be visible if viewed at an acute angle. This step can quite happily be missed if you want.

Picture 6 – The two front claws are first to go on. Dry fit until you are happy. The hind claw should cover the joint, so dry fit a hind claw as well to help you work out how high you should mount the front claw on the leg. Glue the two front claws on.

Picture 7 – The two hind claws are then glued on. Again follow the instructions provided and all should go well. Before attaching the hind claws ensure that the two tabs shown here are bent right back.

To attach a claw dab some glue around the leg and on the hind toe. Do NOT glue on the two small tabs in Picture 7.

Then wrap the claw around the leg, joining the rear claw together. To help align the two halves of the claw, start joining at the tip of the claw and then push the two parts together working towards the ankle. Then slide the part down until the tips pf the two claws in the front and the rear claw, all touch the base. Then firm up around the ankle and let the part dry.

Picture 8 – This shows the completed claws.

Picture 9 - One thing I did notice is while the bird is steady enough as is, it does with the crest have a large side profile and could quite easily get blow over if left in the open. So, I took a few coins and stuck these in the bottom using the hole.

Nearly done!

Just the feet to dry and then I will haul out the watercolours again so I can touch up the odd edges on the head, crest, claws, legs, and parts of the body and wings.

Then a final protective spray of varnish to seal and protect the watercolour, and I will snap a few pictures of the finished item.
Attached Thumbnails
Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m1.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m2.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m3.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m4.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m5.jpg  

Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m6.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m7a.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m7.jpg   Hoopoe - Johan Scherft-m9.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 10-14-2018, 07:05 PM
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Vinalssergio155 Vinalssergio155 is offline
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It looks fantastic, design and construction super. And a great tutorial.
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