#21
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Beautiful Kevin! Amazing that the body in fact only consists of a lower and upper half. It will be a challenge to neatly connect both halves. Keep my fingers crossed but I'm pretty sure you will succeed !
Regards, Erik |
#22
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Quite nice, quite nice indeed.
Was it fun matching the colo(u)rs when edging?
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#23
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Thanks Erik and Doug.
Doug - the edging, which I thought would be a nightmare, wasn't in fact! I used a watercolour pencil, dampened the end and coloured an edge. I then dampened my finger and wiped the edge which gave me the light colour. Then quickly, while the edge was damp, I went to the spots that should be dark and retouched with the pencil. As the edge was damp, the watercolour came out darker. Done!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#24
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Very well done Kevin! Great assembly in all that, and it is very efficient to add a simple strip of paper when the tab is very narrow. It avoids several inconveniences. Great work.
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#25
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Thanks, Vinalssergio155. This model does certainly benefit from the additional reinforcing strips, and I would recommend anyone making this model apply these as they go along. It soon becomes clear where these are needed as the model comes together!
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
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#26
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Now the breast and the back are finished, the two parts can be joined together.
This is going to basically result in an"egg" shape. To prevent distortion of the shape as it is made, I have found it usually easiest to glue one side completely, and then the other (as opposed to starting at one end and working down glueing tabs on each side alternately). Picture 1 - The two halves ready to join. Start joining the parts from the neck. There are two tabs labelled "A" - start at the neck with one of these. Let the tab dry, and then glue the rest in sequence on that side. Do NOT join the very large tabs at the bottom. Then join the other side in the way. Picture 2 and 3 - The sides joined, except for the two large bottom tabs. Joining the two large bottom tabs at this stage now allows for any adjustment in the shape - even a minor adjustment of these tabs will correct any misalignment that has crept in. One last thing - burnish the body to round it out and then glue the "dark" triangle which was left unglued when the back part was constructed. Glueing it now at this stage assists in a getting a nice rounded shape to the back of the body. And the body is then complete. Pictures 4, 5 and 6 - The completed body.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#27
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He joined very well, very good way you have achieved. Getting these curved shapes take your patient work, without hurry. You do it wonderfully.
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#28
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Body Parts - Part 1
PART 1
Continuing, the next parts to go on the body have to be made up – the neck, the “tail cone” and the tail itself. The Neck One part makes a simple cone. Preshape and glue carefully. Picture 1 – The part cut out. Picture 2 – The finished neck. The “Tail Cone”. Picture 3 – The “tail cone” is also made up of a single part. The important thing here is to shape the part properly before glueing it together.
Picture 5 and 6 – The finished part glued together. PART 2 below is a continuation of this section of the build.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#29
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Body Parts - Part 2
PART 2
The Tail. Another single part - the actual tail… Picture 7 - The part cut out. Picture 8 – Next shape the part on one side only (the side WITHOUT the tab) so it has a nice curve as shown here. Then carefully glue the sides together keeping the rounded shape intact. Lastly, flatten the end edge of the tail, and glue this together along the edge only. Pictures 9 and 10 – The finished tail.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#30
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Tracking. Continues to look great.
Don |
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