#11
|
||||
|
||||
Nice start.
And now for the macabre: That pic of the parts laid out reminds me of a bird I saw smashed on the road.
__________________
~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
or the viral Tetris Challenge from over the Summer, where Military, Fire, Police, and EMT teams would layout all their gear, and themselves next to the vehicle to show what all went into such a vehicle
__________________
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors" International Paper Model Convention Blog http://paperdakar.blogspot.com/ "The weak point of the modern car is the squidgy organic bit behind the wheel." Jeremy Clarkson, Top Gear's Race to Oslo |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
The Feathers
So, as I mentioned, the next step was to make up the double-sided parts quickly - purely just to reduce the count of loose pieces lying around!
Picture 1 shows the parts laid out, and ready to join (don't worry about the colour - it was late at night under artificial lights). Sorting the feathers out is easy - like numbers are joined to each other i.e. 1 to 1, 2 to 2 etc. Picture 2 - Once the feathers have been joined the white edges on either side need to be trimmed. When joining do a dry fit for each feather first, to check how you should position them when glueing so they line up as best as possible. Picture 3 - The parts after trimming. Use a SHARP blade as some of the areas to be removed when trimming will be very fine. Picture 4 - The two small tail feathers now need to be glued to the tail. To get the right alignment, line up the inside edges of the feathers to the tail marking. As an example, I have highlighted the two sides to align to in yellow - for Feather Number 1. Picture 5 - Shows the feathers glued in place on the underside of the tail. Picture 6 - The top side of the tail. For the next step, I will probably start work on the body.
__________________
The SD40 is 55 now! |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
"For the next step, I will probably start work on the body." That's a very good way of building up suspense, Kevin. Usually the body is the most complicated part of Johan's bird builds, but perhaps in this case the head as well because of the opened beak. Hope you won't let your audience wait too long....
Erik |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I'm watching and learning, Kevin. I purchased Johan's publication Beautiful Paper Birds, several years ago, but other than removing the cellophane and examining the parts pages, I haven't gone any further.
__________________
Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
Google Adsense |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I made one of the cardinals and haven't done the others yet. It is a bit different doing these birds
__________________
A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Erik - thank you!
I have started the body - because of the way I build it takes forever, and I have also just come back from a road trip - a modelling break as I was flat out doing photographic work. Have enough pics now though to make the next post sensible, so will download and proceed! Don and VK - I appreciate the fact you are following the build and finding it usefull. The birds are easily achievable - technique is important I think, but at the same time it is nothing too difficult. What I will try and do to help, is provide a little more actual build information going forward on actual technique, as well as more hints and tips that work for me! Hope that will get you fired up!
__________________
The SD40 is 55 now! |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
The Body – Techniques
I will cover building the body this time in a couple of posts.
Erik commented that “the body is the most complicated part of Johan's bird builds” and he is right! When I first started building the birds, it was the body that put me off, especially as the thought of producing basically an egg-shaped body from a flat sheet of paper was difficult to grasp. The first couple of times I made a real mess and then realised that I was trying to make these birds, in the same way, I make my other models (buildings, vehicles, trains etc) – basically, cut, fold and glue. You can’t! Because you have to get an accurate 3-dimensional shape out, you also have to bend, burnish, dry fit, trim, be very accurate, and use a lot of patience in terms of letting parts dry completely! So you actually have to change your model building style and technique, modifying your approach where necessary. This is nothing to be afraid of though – making the body is not difficult at all – just include and combine the different techniques mentioned above, and all will fall into shape. In this build I will use more pictures than usual to illustrate the body taking shape and the various techniques. Let’s start by looking at some of the techniques that make a successful body. CUTTING OUT and ACCURACY Picture 1 shows the body part cut out.
When working on the body always dry fit. When glueing the body, the most important technique for ensuring a good shape is “tab flipping”. I have explained this before but will briefly recap.
BURNISHING In terms of tools, the one you may not have, and which I find makes a major difference in achieving a nice well-rounded body is a set of burnishing tools. Burnishing is done to smooth out joins, compound curves and any little kinks or crease marks. Picture 3 shows my burnishing tools. These can be purchased individually or in sets, in stationary stores (often in the “scrapbooking” sections) or Hobby Stores. Before I got these, I used loose ball bearings and small spoons which work well. Teaspoons are about the biggest spoons useable, but soda spoons (with the long handle) and assorted mustard spoons (ex-flea markets and boot sales) also work well for me. Picture 4 - Burnish parts as you build – as soon as its feasible – as burnishing changes the shape slight and this helps with subsequent tab alignment and gluing. Having covered the main techniques, onto the actual body building.
__________________
The SD40 is 55 now! |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Excellent tutorial Kevin. I would like to add from my own experience: Work as symmetrical as possible, leave the triangular flaps for the last and try to build up the bodyshape by first gluing the bigger, shape defining tabs. In this way the body already gets its, let's call it nomimal shape, which makes it easier to get the secondary tabs done, and finally the small triangular fitting flaps. I usually glue small pieces of scrap paper inside the body, to fully seal off the tab connections, and this also helps to emboss (burnish) and round off any small edges.
Great work! Erik |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Erik - excellent comments and all very valid - especially the scrap paper reinforcing!
Thanks for your input here!
__________________
The SD40 is 55 now! |
Google Adsense |
|
|