[Barry]

As quite a few people have bought my models I thought I would write this little note.

1 I allow some overlap in all the major parts, design size is marked.
2 I always build from bow to stern (stern is usually forgiving of adjustments) If the model hull has 3 sheets forming the hull sides, then cut and join 1 and 2 as designed. Trim will apply to sheet 3 and 2 join.
3 If the stern is square then the trim section will overhang the hull. If it is camoflaged the colour will wrap around the stern.
4 Decks again bow to stern overlap will where possible be on straight section or a heavily populated part of the deck.
5 If you convert a full hull to waterline then glue at the deck, a small amount of packing will have to be added to the waterline plate.
6 Keel plates are provided with an overlap up past the waterline and an overlap front to back on the plate.(I do this because I am a lousy builder of underwater hulls and also if you going to sand and paint the keel make it easy)

I design this way for a couple of reasons my hands are pretty duff as are my eyes. Pepakura excellent as it is, suffers creep in length not a lot but enough to make you curse. I can only afford cheap printers mine has a distinct drop to the right if it goes over 10 inches what do you expect for £30.

Last of all please read the B*****Y instructions they are never more than a couple of paragraphs ok, ok I have never read any either

Having said all this please build however you like, I just hope you will have fun with them. Last of all thank you for buying and keeping me on the net.