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Old 06-25-2010, 08:24 AM
bigbenn bigbenn is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 184
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I've done rivets on my scale model card ships and early WW1 armour.
For indented rivets. Go to a dress makers shop and ask for the wheel thing mounted on a wooden handle that dressmakers use to mark out the tissue paper patterns from dressmaker patterns. The tool is cheap and the spikes on the wheel of the tool make excellent indented rivets, when applied carefully. I imagine the rivet spacings would be much the same, but try them and see.
Raised rivets are dead easy. I use PVA glue, but if you are relying on the pre coloured parts of a kit and you want to apply rivets after the model is built, mix the appropriate colour in water based paint, into a small amount of PVA glue and load into a syringe with the needle. Chemists sell them here. Just squeeze the plunger down gently, to release a droplet of precoloured wet glue onto your model, at the rivet points and when the PVA glue dries, you will have a rivet there.
Once you get the hang of it, you can regulate the size of the droplets very easily and you can put down a huge number of droplets in a short amount of time.
If you stuff up with the droplet, use a damp piece of cloth to remove the glue and try again.
It might pay first, to make sure you can remove a droplet, from a scrap piece of card, without leaving any colour discoloration behind.
Normally rivets done with PVA glue dry clear. Since I build large models and for radio control (boats) and I paint all parts with water based paint, as I build the model, rivets are not a problem for me - nor is building in 3D with doors and portholes and windows etc. I use PVA glue, a bubble to "drag over" wheelhouse windows and portholes, then when the PVA glue dries, voila a clear window. Before a boat goes in the water, I use varnish to waterproof over the finished model and to convert it from raw to finished and much stronger and watertight. I can explain the procedure, should anyone be interested.
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