This re-painting of Peter Zorn’s Ford Tri-motor.
1. Why?
I read
Leif Ohlsson’s considerations on printing this model to achieve different scales (
Ford Tri- Motor 1/33 Scale )
I found them a bit complicated for me (even though he explained quite clearly).
So, in a rush of laziness, I decided to re-arrange the pages to be printed in a much bigger paper size. Several pages at a time, by sending them to plotter in A1 or A0 paper size.
My mind soon drifted to other realms:
Why not better re-tracing the lines using Corel? That way the model could be drawn with very clear lines….
Why not thinking on re-painting the model with other colours, closer to my own country’s aviation history?
Why not better making an all-clean-version of it, so that several liveries could be added?
That’s why.
I soon found myself tracing over the original scans, and realised it was possible.
Why keeping it for myself?
Why not sharing this with the community?
This forum has taught me a lot in the few months I’ve been a member here. Not only about model building, but also about sharing.
That’s why.
2. How?
Even though it is one of my favourite programs, I decided to avoid Photoshop for one reason: PS is a bitmap edition software. And a new-clean re-tracing of a wonderful model as this Trimotor is needed a proper rendition that can only be achieved with a vector program. Since I don’t know how to use Adobe illustrator, I went to another program I love. Corel Draw. Vectors also mean that the pattern can be scaled to whatever you wish without loosing definition. From the original 1:33 down to 1:200 or even to 1:16, 1:8 1:4… though I really doubt someone would attempt such a behemoth.
First, I exported Billy’s PDFs to high quality JPGs. Then I imported them to Corel.
Then, I set the image transparency to 70%, and blocked the objet. This will allow me to work on the tracing without much visual interruption, and I will avoid selecting the image by accidentally clicking on it.
The next step is to really start tracing. I use the bezier tool, and define the nodes.
I use a very thin line at the beginning, and try to mark on the exact middle of the original lines.
After I’m happy with the shape, I set the line width to “2” points:
Correct small deviations and add details:
I believe that’s a rather good approximation, with the proper line width and respect for the details.
This process also helps to get rid of those small drawing-printing mistakes, like the lines that go beyond their supposed limits.