Recently there have been a number of questions posted regarding tools to get started in this fine hobby of ours, especially on the software side. Here is a guide for the basic necessities to get going in this hobby.
Physical implements of destru.. err.. construction:
All of these will be available at any hobby store.
Scissors - A good sharp set for rough cuts and straight lines - some folks use multiple pairs, and can manage detail cuts with fine-pointed scissors.
Hobby Knife - Used for the majority of cuts. There are a number of brands available, and various types. Some folks prefer a pen-knife style, and others use scalpels. The knife normally allows for more precise cuts than scissors, and is absolutely necessary for cutting shapes out from inside a part (think holes in a part such as wheels where you can't get the scissors into without cutting through the part).
Cutting Mat - Something to put under your parts as you cut with the knife so that you don't damage your work surface. The general favorite is a "self healing" mat which is a type of rubber that the cuts close back up to provide longer life to the mat. They also provide longer life to the blades by not dulling them as much. However in a pinch, a couple pieces of thick cardboard will do the trick as well.
Glue - Gotta stick the pieces together somehow. Glues are usually classified in two major types - PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) aka white glue, and CA (cyanoacrylate) aka superglue. PVA (such as Elmer's Glue All or Aleene's Tacky Glue) is generally used for most of the construction and CA for special circumstances where a quick strong grab is necessary (though some use CA as their primary adhesive). With all glues, less is more.
Strait Edge - Using a straight edge allows you to score fold lines with your knife prior to bending to ensure a clean, straight fold.
Dull-pointed object - Such as a butter knife, dead ball point pen, or any other rounded but pointy tool. This is used to score the fold lines to weaken the card at this point but not cut through. Some folks use a light stroke with the knife and cut through a bit of the card to score the fold line, others use the dull object compression method. Personal choice.
Tweezers - Very useful in helping manipulate, place, and hold small parts while drying. Some come with self-locking mechanisms to hold parts hands-free while drying.
Additional basic tools - Almost anything can be used in our hobby to help make better models:
Toothpicks can be used as parts (such as prop hubs on planes or wheel axels), or to spread glue into tight areas.
Any type of long cylinder such as a pen, knitting needle, paperclip, etc can be used to help roll smooth curves into paper or make cylinders.
Colored pencils or paint can be used to apply color to the edges of the paper to hide the white that shows through on cut edges.
Paperclips and wire can be used to strengthen small parts like wing struts on a biplane or can be made into a part itself like an antenna or rigging.
Computer hardware and software
In the new world of digital models, many new and experienced modelers find themselves faced with the challenge of getting a digital model from the internet onto paper. These tips should help:
Hardware and media
The first things you will need are a computer with an internet connection and a color printer. Nearly any modern color printer will work fine, but read through the forums for tips and reviews on specific models.
You will want to print your models at high quality on cardstock - a thick type of paper. Most office supply stores will carry both Bristol (or cover) board and Index stock. Paper is measured by weight - 65lb (~160gsm) Bristol is a good general card, and 110lb (~200gsm) Index stock is a bit thicker and useful for larger/stronger parts and models.
Software
This is probably the most difficult section for folks to pick up if they are new to the digital side of the hobby realm. Below are some file types you will come across and some popular software titles that can be used to manage them.
PDF files - File will have a name such as filename.pdf. This is a document format and will be the actual model to print. You can use Adobe Acrobat Reader or Foxit Reader to open and print these files.
Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
Foxit Software - Foxit Reader for Windows
ZIP or RAR files - These are compressed files. They are a way to make a file (or bunch of files) smaller and contained within a single package. Inside you will normally find PDF files or other model files. To open ZIP files you can use Winzip or 7zip (Windows also has the native ability to open Zip files). For RAR files try WinRAR (7Zip can open both). Once you open the compressed file you will see the model files and you can open them directly or extract them to a folder.
WinZip - Windows Zip Utility - Zip Files, Unzip Files
WinRAR archiver, a powerful tool to process RAR and ZIP files
7-Zip
PDO files - Some designers release their models as a PDO - this is a Pepakura file. Pepakura is a tool that converts 3D computer models to flat parts to print out. These files have the added benefit of being able to see both the parts and the original 3D model so you can see how it's going to go together.
Pepakura Designer
That's all for now! Feel free to post questions/comments/tips!