Hi there!
Just found this (somewhat old) thread, but I think this is an always current topic, so I would like to add my 2 cents also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin
The method I use is to first produce as accurate a framework for the hull as I can. This is not difficult if you have a decent set of scale drawings to start with. Once the framework is built, I then do the hull skins as if I were covering a stick and tissue airplane. Lay a piece of paper against the frame, and start trimming until it fits onto the framework. When there are severe compound curves such as in the bow, this means figuring out places to cut darts and gussets to get the flat sheet to take on the proper curves. Once the paper fits on the hull (dry fit, of course), flatten out the part and scan it. Use your drawing program to refine outline, and go through an iterative process of cutting out the piece, finding out where the fit problems are, draw in corrections, etc. until you are happy with it. In short....the skills needed are those of the pattern maker, not the draftsman.
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I agree absolutely with Darwin, I did the same with my
Mayflower build without the scanning and drawing program. But here I had some
"...decent scale drawings to start with..." for the
frame.
Without any PC program and drawings in the first place for the frame, one need to find (or invent) a so called
buttock line diagram as close to the ship hull form as possible (some can be found on the internet or in books).
This can then be changed.
A "dry fit" by making a first preliminary "3-D model" of the frames can give a
"first impression and optical correction" (cut the shape in form or make a bit bigger frames as required). Then it is good to make a "
top view" drawing and compare different lines at different heights i.e. waterline, decks, imaginary horizontal waterlines above and below the waterline (for instance 2 lines each).
One can draw a nice curvature of the hull and see, where the buttock lines/frames do not fit (using a ruler and a pen). Sometimes one has to add a mm or two, somtimes remove from a certain frame position.I do not reccomend repositioning the frames, though. Rather to trim the individual frames as required!!
Then I correct (redraw on the old one) the buttock line diagram and make the actual frames.
I use this approach in my new build of the Neptune, a spanish galleon from the 17th century.
Here's the link.
After all it is really all about your "fitting and drawing skills"...
Hope this is a bit useful. If you want I could make some "step by step" photos...
Rgds,
RdK