Thanks Nighthawk. If you wish. Here's what I got (and published somewhere):
One of the best presents I ever treated myself to was the simple Minolta Dimage X20 I got many years ago. It has been replaced since then, but I still miss it. It opened up this world of communicating with others about papermodels.
After a lot of mistakes, and with the advice of others, I arrived at the following simple rules:
1) Set the camera to its highest quality & image size - reduce image size and "weight" (quality; jpg compression) later on in the computer, in order to fit restrictions of the site. Any standard graphic programme should do the trick.
2) Never use the flashlight. I use my standard work table lighting, nothing fancy or special. In this photo (taken by the now defunct Minolta in the photo, with the help of a mirror) a background ramp of four weak energy-saving bulbs is the only source. Normally, the standard halogen desk lamp you can see is turned on, providing the main source of concentrated lighting (I only turn it on to half its full strength, which lets the background lighting in to soften shadows). Set your camera to "fluorescent bulbs" if you use them (I have that setting turned on as default).
3) Get the cheapest and smallest tripod you can find - but get it, and use it religiously. Set the camera to self-exposure each time. Then you have ten seconds to get your hands or fingers into the picture, to provide some action and comparison for size. Use the self-exposure setting, even if you don't plan to get into the picture - it prevents blurred pictures.
4) If you are holding up a small detail, use something substantial, such as your hand or finger to focus on, while pressing the trigger (that's when the camera automatically focuses and sets exposure). You then have ten seconds to position the part correctly, which is ample time.
5) Get in close. And don't forget to engage the "macro" setting.
Best, Leif